Here’s a dish we see no matter where in Italy our Italiaoutdoors private tours take us – braised beef with Brunello in Tuscany, braised beef with Amarone in the Veneto, and braised in Barolo in Piedmont. A perfect dish for colder months that pairs superbly with the robust red wines that are the signature ingredient. However, here in the US I am hesitant to braise beef in a $60 bottle of wine!
This recipe was inspired by my recent post on Brasato al Barolo, but rather than using an expensive Barolo I selected a bottle of Barbera. Barbera is a red Italian varietal, originally from Piedmont, that is now the third most planted grape in Italy. While Barolo and Barbaresco are typically saved for special occasions, Barbera is “the people’s wine” and enjoyed every day.
Barbara is very dark in color, but surprising light in taste, with flavors of cherries, strawberries and raspberries. Barbera is low in tannins and high in acidity, which makes it a perfect wine to pair with rich foods. Here I’ve braised oxtail in Barbera. The acidity in the wine cuts straight through the intense flavors and fat, a perfect complement to this luxurious and comforting dish.
Braising is an ancient method of cooking that slowly transforms tougher cuts of meat into a luscious dish of meat that falls apart with a touch served with a flavorful sauce. The meat is seared, some vegetables may be added for flavor, then the meat is partially submerged in liquid and slowly simmered for hours until the meat literally falls apart. This Piedmont-inspired variation includes chestnuts, very common to find in Italian dishes in the colder months. `
The Italian word brasato comes from brace, meaning “hot coals”, as a heavy pot containing the braise would be buried in glowing coals where the meat would cook for hours.
Brasato di Coda di Bue al Barbera (Braised Oxtail in Barbera)
Serves 6 to 8
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 pounds oxtails, cut into 3” sections
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dusting
2 medium onions, diced
4 medium carrots, peeled and diced
1 stalk celery, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 cup cooked chestnuts, coarsely chopped
6 cups Barbera wine
Season all sides of the oxtails with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a heavy enamel pot or other ovenproof pot; place oxtails in the pot in batches and brown on all sides until well caramelized all over. Remove and set aside.
Lower heat to medium. Add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until they begin to soften, 4-5 minutes, scraping up all the browned bits from the pan as they cook. Add the bay leaves and cloves, stir to combine. Return oxtails to the pan, placing on the vegetables. Add the chestnuts.
Add the wine. The wine will come up the sides of the oxtails so that they are half submerged.
Raise the heat to high, when the wine begins to bubble, lower to a simmer and cover. Cook over low heat, turning the meat occassionally, until the meat is very tender, falling apart when you pull it with a fork, and the wine is reduced – this may take 2 1/2 – 3 hours.
Carefully remove the oxtails to a platter and keep warm. Bring the wine and vegetables back to a boil and continue to reduce until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary.
Serve with polenta. Spoon some of the sauce over each serving.
