I’ve lost count now of how many times I have visited Italy, between hosting our Italiaoutdoors tours and then the on-the-ground research required to discover unique new experiences to share with our guests. My friends and family think I by now have “seen it all”, what more could I possibly discover? But my frequent visits have only really taught me one thing – even if I had a lifetime to devote to this, I would barely scratch the surface. In culinary school I was taught about the 20 regions of Italy, and we covered briefly the cuisine of each. But I’ve discovered that the reality of Italian cuisine is much more complex, with countless specialty products like the Tortona strawberry in Piedmont, or the Bosco grape varietal in Liguria that are only grown in a very small area, and consumed locally. The only way to learn about these is to visit the area itself; travel three towns over and you might well find the majority of locals may not have ever tried, or even heard of these foods.

A quick example – a trip across the region of Emilia-Romagna to try its famed stuffed pastas would really need include stops in Parma to try the Tortelli Erbette (square ravioli stuffed with ricotta and herbs), then to Modena to enjoy Tortellino in Brodo (small stuffed ‘knots’ stuffed with meats and Parmigiano Reggiano, served in a rich capon broth), then on to Ferrara to try Cappellacci di Zucca (large ‘hat’ shaped knots stuffed with pumpkin and Parmigiano Reggiano, typically served either in a butter and sage sauce, as well as a tomato ragu). And then to Bologna…

So it was a great pleasure to find in my mailbox an advance copy of Elizabeth Minchilli’s latest book, “Eating My Way Through Italy – Heading Off the Main Roads to Discover the Hidden Treasures of the Italian Table”. I’ve followed Elizabeth’s very informative blog for a couple of years now. Having spent most of her life in Italy, she well knows the complicated and fascinating culinary landscape of Italy. Many cookbook authors covering Italian cuisine generalize by the 20 regions, leaving the reader with the sense that the food in one region is very similar throughout. This simplification is certainly the best way to present what is a very complicated subject in an organized, user-friendly way. But it also hides the enchanting disarray that can only be experienced as you visit the neighborhood kitchens; the traditions of a single village that resulted in a particular dish being served on Easter; the environmental conditions that allow the white asparagus to flourish in the Brenta Valley, but won’t grow in the next valley over; the historical events that led to Tuscan bread to be still made without salt today.

In “Eating My Way Through Italy” Elizabeth takes the reader along with her on her culinary explorations, providing a series of engaging stories about her adventures around the tables of Italy. From well-known Italy classics like Parmigiano Reggiano and Acteo Balsamico Tradizionale to very obscure local traditions like Su Filindeu of Sardinia, Elizabeth provides not only a very readable overview of the production process, but also captivates us with a bit of history, as well as the always interesting, often amusing role these foods have played in Italian culture. Definitely a welcome addition to my library, one I will return to again and again for both information as well as inspiration!

Elizabeth includes some wonderful recipes among her anecdotes. I had just last week posted an article on my visit to a producer of Acteo Balsamico Tradizionale, Medici Ermete in Reggio Emilia. So, equipped with my souvenir bottle of the real stuff, I thought I’d try Elizabeth’s recipe for a tasty Ricotta, Cherry Jam and Balsamic Tart. It was a delicious – and very easy – way to share the special Acteo Balsamico Tradizionale with my friends back here in the US.

I used my favorite sweet pie crust recipe, and replaced the lattice crust with cookie cutouts because I find those a little easier to work with. But the combinations of flavors in tart filling make the dish, and those are all Elizabeth’s!

Ricotta, Cherry Jam and Balsamic Tart

Makes one 10-inch tart

For the crust

1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
Large pinch of kosher salt
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, beaten
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2 cups all-purpose flour

For the filling

1 cup cow’s milk ricotta
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 cup sour cherry jam
1 tablespoon Aceto Balsamico di Modena
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, for drizzling

Make the crust: Place the butter, salt, sugar, egg and lemon zest in a food processor and process until smooth; add the flour, 1/2 cup at a time, pulsing in between each addition until just combined. After the last addition, process until a ball of dough forms, 15 to 30 seconds. Do not overwork.

The dough will be very soft. Divide into two balls, one using 2/3 of the dough, the other 1/3. Place each ball of dough on a sheet of clear plastic wrap. Stretch a second sheet of wrap over the dough and flatten it to a round disc with a thickness of 1/2 inch. Refrigerate for 30 minutes, and not more than an hour.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Make the filling: Beat the sugar and ricotta until very smooth. Set aside.

Stir the Aceto Balsamico di Modena into the jam. Set aside.

Line the bottom of a 10-inch tart pan with parchment paper. Roll out the larger disc of the dough between the two sheets of plastic wrap to a round about 12 inches in diameter, slightly larger than your tart pan. Remove the top sheet and invert the dough into the tart pan. Fit it in the pan as well as you can, then remove the top sheet of plastic wrap. Don’t worry if it breaks, the dough is very forgiving. Just patch it together. Trim the top edge.

Spoon the jam filling onto the crust, then carefully spread out the ricotta on top of the jam, using the back of a spoon to smooth it out.

Roll out the remaining dough between the two sheets of plastic wrap to about 1/4″ thick, remove the top sheet. With a cookie cutter or knife, cut small shapes – I used stars, but leaves or whatever you wish. Top the tart with the cut outs. Place the tart on a sheet pan to protect your oven during cooking, as the jam may boil over the tart pan.

Bake the tart in the preheated oven for about 50 minutes, until the ricotta and the cut outs on top are beginning to brown. Let cool a bit, then remove the ring of the tart plan. Allow to cool completely before serving.

When ready to serve, cut and place the slices on individual dessert plates and drizzle with Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale.