Arancini con Mozzarella e Prosciutto – Sicilian Street Food

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Guests on our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine Italy tours, and students in my cooking classes, have made or tasted many types of risotto with me, as it is one of Italy’s signature dishes and everyone can find a flavor they like. But it is not a dish that reheats well, so what to do with your leftovers? My favorite solution – Arancini- deep fried rice balls, stuffed with something yummy.

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Reputed to have originated in Sicily in the 10th century during Arab rule, when large serving bowls of saffron rice with plates of meat and vegetables were shared by a table. Sometime later “rice balls” that were breaded and fried evolved as a way of transporting these foods easily on long trips. The first use of the word arancini (meaning “little oranges” in Italian) to refer to these stuffed rice balls dates from the 19th century.

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Today Arancini are a popular street food in Sicily, the most common style is al ragu, stuffed with a meat ragu (meat tomato sauce) and mozzarella, but you can find many specialty types – stuffed with mushrooms (con funghi), eggplant (con melanzane), even the famed Sicilian Bronte pistachios. In Palermo and Trapani, arancini are a traditional dish to celebrate the feast of Santa Lucia, on 13 December, commemorating the arrival of a supply ship carrying rice on that day in 1646, relieving a severe famine. For this holiday, you can even find sweet versions of arancini coated in sugar and cocoa.

In Rome, you will find a similar food called suppli, most typically stuffed with cheese. The melted cheese makes ‘strings’ as you pull it apart, “suppli al telefono“, or telephone wires. In Naples, they are known as Palle di Riso, literally “balls of rice.”

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A basic recipe follows here but I encourage you to create your own versions to complement your leftover risotto. I recently made an Apple Risotto for my wine club, the leftovers became Apple Arancini with Sausage and Mozzerella.

Arancini con Mozzarella e Prosciutto

  • 4 1/2 cups leftover risotto
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
  • 2 tablespoons minced parsley
  • 1 cup freshly grated grana cheese
  • 4 eggs, lightly beaten,  two at a time
  • 4 ounces mozzarella, cut into 1/4 inch cubes
  • 4 ounces prosciutto, diced
  • bread crumbs or panko
  • flour
  • vegetable oil for frying

Place the risotto in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper, if needed. Add the butter, parsley, grana, two of the beaten eggs and stir gently to combine.

Lightly beat the remaining two eggs and season with salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow bowl, the beaten eggs in another, and the bread crumbs in a third bowl.

Combine the prosciutto and mozzarella. Take a small handful (about 2 tablespoons) of rice and begin to shape into a small ball. Press into the ball with your finger to make a small hole. Fill the hole with some of the mozzarella and prosciutto, and then close the hole with a little additional risotto. Roll between your palms to form a small ball, about the size of a small clementine. If they are too large, the stuffing inside will not get warm enough as it cooks. Place on a sheet pan, and form the remaining balls, attempting to keep them uniform in size.

Roll each arancino first in the flour, then dredge it in the beaten egg, and roll it well in the breadcrumbs. Place on a sheet pan.

Fill a heavy sauce pan with the vegetable oil to a depth of 3 inches. Heat the oil over medium heat to a temperature of 350°. Carefully place a couple of arancino in the pan and fry until a deep golden brown, turning occasionally. You want to make sure you cook them long enough so the cheese in the middle melts. Using a slotted spoon, remove from the oil and drain on a dish covered with a paper towel. Feel free to taste the first one, to check that the cheese has melted! Continue cooking until all are fried. Keep warm in a heated oven, and serve warm.

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Sugo all’Arrabbiata – “Angry” Red Sauce for Pasta

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A popular pasta dish from Rome and the Lazio region is the simple but tasty Sugo all’Arrabbiata. The name “Arrabbiata” comes from the Italian word for angry, referring to the red face one would get as a result of eating this spicy pasta. But certainly as the chef, you are in control of how spicy you make this dish, and having whipped up a wonderful meal with very little effort, anger will be far from your mind.

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Arrabbiata sauce is of relatively recent origin, some suggest from the late 1800s or early 1900s. Now we think of tomatoes as a traditional ingredient of Italian cuisine, but in fact the plant is not native to Italy, or to Europe for that matter. Tomatoes originated in South America, the name “tomato” coming from the Aztec word for the plant, “tomatl.” Tomatoes found their way to Europe following the conquest of the Aztecs by Cortes, as colonists sent home samples of this strange new plant. Tomatoes reached Italy in 1548, but it took hundreds of years for them to become a commonplace ingredient in the Italian diet. Dishes with dried pasta and canned tomatoes – which many recipes for Arrabbiata use – weren’t really popular until the 1950s or 1960s. But by the 1970s this dish had become a staple of Roman cuisine, featured prominently in two films of that era, Marco Ferreri’s La Grande Bouffe and Federico Fellini’s Roma.

Ingredients for your authentic Sugo all’Arrabbiata:

Tomatoes:

You can use fresh tomatoes when in season and tasty, or canned diced tomatoes when not. San Marzano canned tomatoes would be the favorite choice in Italy, but any good canned diced tomato will do.

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Fresh tomatoes will be nicer if peeled and seeded. With a sharp knife, cut an X just through the outer skin on the bottom of each tomato. Immerse the whole tomatoes in boiling water for about 1 minute. You should see the skin around each X begin to pull back; remove the tomatoes from the water and peel off the skin. Cut the tomatoes open, push the seeds out with your thumb and discard. Cut the remaining pulp into 1/2 inch chunks.

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Hot Chili Peppers:

Recipes vary as to using fresh or dried; use fresh if available, but still great with dried.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil:

Use a generous amount. You are flavoring it with garlic and hot red peppers, so it doesn’t need to be the highest quality, but it provides nice mouthfeel and balance to the acidity of the tomaotes, so you want to use more than just enough to coat your saute pan.

Garlic:

Adjust amount according to your taste.

Cheese:

Grated pecorino is the traditional choice. A hard grated cheese can substitute.

Pasta:

Penne is the traditional shape of choice. Other short pastas like ziti or rigatoni would substitute nicely.

Wines from Lazio region to pair with your Arrabbiata would be Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone, a white blend of Malvasia and Trebbiano or a red Cesanese, an indigenous varietal dating back to Roman times.

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Penne all’Arrabbiata

Serves 4 as a main course, or 6 as an appetizer

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 fresh red chile, seeded and minced OR 1/2 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes
1-28 ounce can diced tomatoes OR 4 fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1 pound penne pasta
1 tablespoon fresh flat leaf parsley, minced

Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic cloves and red pepper, cook until the garlic browns. Remove cloves from oil and discard them.

Add the tomatoes to the saute pan and simmer for about 15 minutes.

Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat. Salt water generously. Add the penne and cook until al dente, with still a bit of resistance when you bite into one. Drain the penne, reserving about a cup of the cooking water. Add the penne to the tomatoes, tossing to combine. Add a little of the pasta water to the tomato sauce if it seems too thick to coat the penne well.

Season with salt, sprinkle with the parsley and serve with grated pecorino cheese.

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Pasta alla Puttanesca

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The origins of this dish, translated as “whore’s pasta”, are commonly attributed to the working ladies of Naples looking for a quick and easy dinner. In his Naples at Table (1998), Arthur Schwartz shares several anecdotes that point to Neapolitan prostitutes as the creators of this dish, including one well-known nineteenth-century courtesan, Yvette “La Francese” (Yvette the French), a native of Provence, who created the dish to soothe her homesickness.

But Italians love to create these colorful histories without concerning themselves too much with the facts. Italian food historian and translator Jeremy Parzen suggests that this risqué history is unlikely: “the noun puttana and the adjective puttanesco are derived from the Italian putto, ‘boy.’ By the sixteenth-century (long before tomatoes and dried pasta were popular in Italian cuisine), the term puttanesco was already used in Italian to denote something belonging to a ‘lesser station in life,’ so to speak, ‘boyish’ or ‘girlish’ or even ‘whoreish,’” He continues: “the qualifier alla puttanesca refers to the fact that it is not a rich dish. In other words, it’s not a meat sauce or a sauce flavored with stock. It’s a dressing for pasta made savory by combining ‘humble’ ingredients (another related word, puttanata means ‘rubbish’ or ‘crap’ in Italian, as in the expression, non dire puttanate, ‘don’t talk crap,’ and has nothing to do with prostitutes).”

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The birthplace of this sauce, sugo alla puttanesca, probably lies in the area of Naples and south along the Amalfi coast. Here the ingredients tomatoes, capers, olives, anchovies, and garlic are staples in the local cuisine. Dishes prepared with dried pasta and tomato-based sauces did not really become popular in Italy until the 1950s and 1960s. According to a study commissioned by the Italian Pasta-Makers Union, Pasta alla Puttanesca first came into fashion in Italy during the 1960s. As prostitution was outlawed in Italy in 1958, it likely originated elsewhere.

Whatever its origins, this is an easy and quick dinner prepared straight from your pantry. The perfect combination of sweet tomatoes and salty capers, anchovies and olives, with a bit of heat from the red pepper flakes. Enjoy with a bottle of Aglianico, a great red wine from the Italian region Campania, home to Naples and the Amalfi coast.

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Pasta alla Puttanesca
Serves 4-6

6 whole fillets anchovies; salt-packed preferred
3 tbsp. large capers, salt-packed preferred
1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 whole large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 whole 14-oz. can diced tomatoes
3⁄4 cup olives (3 ½ oz.), sliced
1⁄2–1 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 sprig fresh oregano
Kosher salt
1 lb. dried linguine
Italian parsley, coarsely chopped for garnish

If using salt-packed anchovies and/or capers, rinse and soak in water for 15 minutes. Remove and rinse again. Remove bones from whole anchovies if using. This is still a great recipe even if only oil-packed anchovies and brine-packed capers are available. Coarsely chop the anchovies.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When shimmering, add the garlic and anchovies and cook until fragrant but not browned, 30 seconds. Stir in the canned tomatoes, olives, capers, red pepper flakes, and oregano; bring to a simmer, then lower the heat to medium-low. Cook until reduced slightly, 5-7 minutes. Remove from heat.

Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat. Salt the water well; you want it to taste salty. Add the linguine and cook until just barely al dente, 8-9 minutes. Drain, reserving some of the pasta cooking water. Return the sauce to medium heat, then add the pasta to the skillet. Add a bit of the pasta cooking water to loosen the sauce if you think it needs it. Toss to coat, stirring to finish cooking the pasta, 2-3 minutes.

Transfer to a large serving bowl or individual serving dishes if desired. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve immediately. Grated cheese is an option, but the combination of fish and cheese is often frowned upon in Italy.

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Torta di Pere e Cioccolato – Bittersweet Chocolate and Pear Cake

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A year or so ago I took my two adult sons with me to Italy. Given the busy schedules of two 20-somethings, I didn’t get to choose when they would visit – late August was my only option, the height of tourist season and a time I usually don’t recommend. But with proper planning, we still managed to have a fun-filled trip without dealing with crowds of tourists. Italy still has so many exceptional places well worth visiting, they just haven’t yet been discovered by the guide books or Frances Mayes.

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View of Florence from our hotel balcony

We did visit Florence, but with a private local guide and scheduling visits late in the day, we avoided the crowds. We headed north, rented a BMW M4 and spent 4 days driving through the Dolomites and Alps. That time of year the typical towns and mountain passes that are recommended to most visitors are crowded with cars, packs of motorcycles and tour buses all slowly crawling up these narrow passes, headed to the same sights. When you get to the top, the parking areas are full. Not the way I want to experience the natural beauty of this region!

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Dolomites

We were able to find areas in these majestic mountains that were off of the standard tourist radar. Sitting in traffic was not an option, we wanted roads where we could open it up a bit and enjoy putting our high performance car through its paces. And we found plenty here – challenging curves, precipitous drops, little traffic, even in August. We then visited the lovely city of Mantova, few tourists here. Tuscany is crowded and hot in August, but we stayed at an elegant wine resort in the Valpolicella region where we sampled some of Italy’s best wines in an enjoyably tranquil setting. On to Maranello, near Bologna, to spend an hour behind the wheel of a Ferrari (as you may have guessed by now, my sons enjoy fast cars.) Almost two years later, my eldest son commented that this was the best vacation he had ever had. Sharing this experience with them certainly makes it one of mine.

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Mantova
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Wine estate in Valpolicella
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Every morning began with a great breakfast buffet. A favorite cake that brought back the fond memories of this vacation is a Pear and Chocolate Cake that made its way to our table on many mornings, from the Dolomites to Bologna. It is a treat that can go from accompanying a cup of coffee for breakfast to afternoon tea, to an after dinner sweet with a nice pear liqueur or grappa. This particular version comes from Al Di La Restaurant in Park Slope, Brooklyn.

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Torta di Pere e Cioccolato – Bittersweet Chocolate and Pear Cake

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 eggs, at room-temperature4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
3/4 cup sugar
3 pears, peeled, in a small dice
3/4 cup bittersweet chocolate chunks

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch cake or springform pan and dust with flour, set aside.

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt together, set aside.

Using a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the eggs on high speed until pale and very thick, at least five minutes in a heavy duty stand mixer; longer with a hand mixer.

While the eggs are whipping, brown the butter. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and cook it until the butter browns and smells nutty (about 6 to 8 minutes). It helps to frequently scrape the solids off the bottom of the pan in the last couple minutes to ensure even browning. Remove from the flame but keep in a warm spot.

Add the sugar to the eggs and whip a few minutes more.

Just as the egg-sugar mixture is starting to lose volume, turn the mixture down to stir, and add the flour mixture and brown butter. Add one third of the flour mixture, then half of the butter, a third of the flour, the remaining butter, and the rest of flour. Whisk until just barely combined — no more than a minute from when the flour is first added — and then use a spatula to gently fold the batter until the ingredients are combined. It is very important not to over-whisk or fold the batter or it will lose volume.

Pour into prepared pan. Sprinkle the pear and chocolate chunks over the top, and bake until the cake is golden brown and springs back to the touch, about 40 to 50 minutes, or a tester comes out clean. Cool on a rack, then remove from pan and serve.

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Orecchiette – Pasta By Hand

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A highlight of many of our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine private tours in Italy are cooking classes, and of course making pasta is always a favorite activity. But my view of what makes a good cooking class for our clients (besides a glass of prosecco) is that they leave with recipes they can make back at home. I love getting emails from groups who have visited with us, who gather together months later to recreate their Italy feast back home.

Pasta is particularly challenging in this regard, many requiring special equipment like a pasta maker; or a high level of skill with a rolling pin to be successful. Stuffed pastas like ravioli are very labor intensive – make the dough, make a filling, roll out the dough, shape the pasta. So I like to find those pasta recipes that are the simplest for a novice like me to do at home – no special equipment, easy to form, rustic in nature. Orecchiette makes the cut.

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Orecchiette (pronounced with the ‘cch’ sounding like “kk”) are a small disc shaped pasta from the region of Puglia, the heel of the boot. The name comes from the Italian word orecchia, meaning ‘ear’, and -etta, meaning ‘small’, as their shape resembles an ear, a small round dome with a center thinner than its edge. Like most pasta hailing from the south of Italy, orecchiette are made with durum wheat and water, not eggs. This video shows the famous grandmothers of Bari who make orecchiette each day and sell it to local restaurants. Note: I do not make it anywhere nearly as proficiently as these ladies. I tried to use a knife as they did, and kept cutting my orecchiette in half. This is educational only, so you can appreciate the masters at work!

I recommend a very good book on just this subject, Pasta By Hand: A Collection of Italy’s Regional Hand-Shaped Pasta by Jenn Louis. This recipe for orecchiette comes from here, and the dough mixed up wonderfully in my mixer just as she described. I did think her two step process for forming the orecchiette was a little too complicated, I just pushed and twisted with my thumb and left it at that – I am sure hers are much more uniform in appearance, but my abbreviated method was easy and quick enough that I would make them regularly. , rather than just a one time thing!

Serve these with a variety of different sauces, from a simple tomato sauce, a meat sauce, or, as typically served in Puglia, with a spicy green and sausage – Orecchiette con Salsiccia, Cavoli Rapa e Pignoli. Enjoy with a glass of Primitivo from Puglia (Primitivo is a one of Puglia’s favorite local grapes, you’ll know it here in the US as Zinfandel.)

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Orecchiette

9 ounces/1 1/2 cups semolina flour, plus more for dusting
9 ounces/1 3/4 cups + 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons kosher salt
9 ounces/1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water, plus more as needed

In a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the semolina flour, all-purpose flour, and salt at medium speed. Add the water and stir with a wooden spoon or mix on medium speed until a cohesive but not sticky dough forms, 1 to 2 minutes. Add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and knead with your hands or on medium speed until the dough is smooth and soft without being sticky or dry, about 8 minutes more. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 1 hour.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and dust with semolina. Cut off a chunk of dough about the width of 2 fingers and cover the rest with plastic wrap. On an unfloured work surface, use your hands to roll the chunk into a log about 3/4 inch in diameter. Cut the log into 1/4-inch pieces. Press down on each piece of dough with your thumb, pushing and twisting slightly to form an indented disk.

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(This was all I did to shape my orecchiete. The original recipe added: Now place the disk on the tip of your thumb and gently pull down on the edges with your other fingers, molding the dough to form a cup shape. Too much work for me.)

Place the orecchiette on the prepared baking sheets and shape the remaining dough. Make sure that they don’t touch or they will stick together.

To store, refrigerate on the baking sheets, covered with plastic wrap, for up to two days, or freeze on the baking sheets and transfer to a ziplock bag. Use within 1 month. Do not thaw before cooking.

Bring a large pot filled with water to a boil over medium-high heat. Salt generously. Add the orecchiette and poach until they float to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes. Simmer for 1 to 2 minutes more, until al dente. Remove immediately with a slotted spoon. Serve right away.

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