Pesche Scaligere – Stuffed Peaches with Almonds and Amaretti

by chefbikeski Posted on September 8, 2012
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Pesche Scaligere

One of my favorite summer indulgences, both in the US and in Italy, is fresh peaches. It’s the only time of year I eat this fruit, as the off-season, imported versions found at supermarkets most of the year are pretty horrid. But when fresh are available, I use them constantly. And in Italy, we find fresh peaches throughout the northeastern regions we tour – nothing better as a cool refreshing snack than a fresh peach picked up at a market along our bike tour.

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Fresh Peaches

Peaches were one of the first fruit from the Veneto awarded IGP (Indicazione Geographica Tipica) status by the Italy Ministry of Agriculture. The “Pesca di Verona IGP” trademark provides regulations for peaches (and nectarines), certifying the varietal, sugar levels, taste balance, color and size. Their are 22 varieties covered by the regulations, selected for their shape, flavor, color and the level of sugar. The color of the fruit is quite intense, the flesh is solid and juicy, with a characteristic flavor due to the right balance between level of sugar and acid created by the optimal climate, a combination of the protection afforded by the hills to the north, and the mildness of Lago di Garda just to the west.

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Grinding almonds and amaretti

Emilia-Romagna also has its own IGP regulations for its peaches. In 2002, the Consortium for the Protection and Development of IGP Peaches and Nectarines of Romagna was founded in Ferrara, dedicated to preserving the quality of the locally grown peaches and nectarines, and promoting them throughout the EU. As in Verona, the farmers of the region are dedicated to preserving the quality and tradition of this local favorite.

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Stuffed peaches ready for oven

*Note: the photo above shows peaches that have been peeled, which the original recipe called for. I eliminated this step, as it makes it much simpler, and I prefer the final presentation when the skin is left intact.

Peaches have been cultivated in Verona since the Roman era, and since 1500 in the Lago di Garda area. The fruit itself came originally from China, where it is considered a symbol of immortality. It then reached Persia, a country that lent the fruit its scientific name Prunus persica, and from there it spread in the entire Mediterranean Basin, via the conquests of Alexander the Great. You will find peach desserts all over Italy, from Tuscany to Piedmont, to this one here from Verona.

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Amaretti, peaches, almonds, grappa

Fruit desserts are my favorite, and the easier the better. This one I found in La Cucina – The Regional Cooking of Italy. It is one of several similar recipes in this book, all some variation of stuffing peaches with crushed amaretti cookies. One from Liguria, one from Emilia-Romagna, and this one from Verona, called Pesche Scaligere.

The Scaligere family ruled Verona for over 150 years, expanding their territory to include Padua, Treviso, and Vicenza. Their reign was characterized with many battles with neighboring rulers, and lots of plotting and intrigue in and amongst themselves, but some of the magnificent building constructed during their rule still adorn Verona today, including their tombs at the Church of Santa Maria Antica in Verona. I guess when the Scaliger family enjoyed peaches, this is how they did it. I included this in a cooking class recently, and it was a hit with all.

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Prepping peaches at a cooking class

Pesche Scaligere

Serves 8

8 firm yellow peaches
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 cup blanched almonds, toasted and finely chopped
10 amaretti, crumbled and ground
1 tablespoon grappa
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup honey

Preheat the oven to 350°.

Cut the peaches in half, and remove the pits.

Place the butter on a baking dish, and put the peaches in the dish, cut side up.

Combine the chopped almonds, amaretti, grappa, sugar and honey in a small bowl. Or you can combine them in a food processor.

Fill the peach halves with this mixture. Place the peaches in the oven, and cook until warm and starting to brown, about 5-6 minutes.

Serve at room temperature, with whipped cream.

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Insalata di Farro Caprese – Farro Salad with Tomatoes, Mozzarella and Basil

by chefbikeski Posted on September 2, 2012
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Insalata di Farro Caprese

My last post was one of my favorite late summer pasta dishes, an incredibly simple pasta with raw tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil. This post is a follow-on; using the same flavor combinations to create a whole grain salad. This is not an authentic Italian dish, but an example of how you can use Italian cuisine to inspire your own cooking. Most fans of Italian food will recognized the ingredients for an Insalata Caprese, a salad ‘in the style of Capri’, an island off the western coast of Italy just a bit south of Naples. I usually focus my recipes on the cuisine of Northern Italy, where we focus our bike and ski tours, but the Insalata Caprese is found throughout Italy today.

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Ingredients for "Caprese", tomatoes, basil, mozzarella

The key to a great Insalata Caprese, wherever it is made, is fresh ingredients – tomatoes, basil, mozzarella. Don’t make this with imported January tomatoes, basil pesto from a tube, and shredded mozzarella. It is a late summer dish to be made with garden fresh ingredients and handmade mozzaralla. I’m serving this over Labor Day weekend, as a side dish to grilled bluefish and vegetables.

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Cooking Farro

Farro is an ancient grain, grown for thousands of years in North Africa, the Middle East, and northern and central Italy, it flourishes best in high-altitude, barren land. Centuries ago, it fed the Roman legions and was a nutritious food that played a primary role in their diet during this time, and may have even been used as money.

It is a very nutritious grain, high in vitamins A, B, C and E, magnesium, and fiber. It is quite easy to digest, and as it is also quite low in gluten, may be appropriate for some who are gluten-intolerant.

Today in Italy, you will see farro used in the cuisine of Central and Northern Italy. It is very common to find it in soups, together with beans, chickpeas, and greens. Farro pastas are wonderful to try. And as it contains a starch very similar to that found in rices such as Carnaroli and Arborio, it makes a wonderful risotto, with its characteristic creamy liquid.

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Tamburini food store, Bologna

On a recent trip to Bologna, I visited one of the wonderful local food stores, Tamburini, on Via Caprarie. This is a beautiful store featuring the magnificent cuisine of Emilia-Romagna. There is a vast array of cured meats and cheeses to tempt you, as well as the sublime stuffed pastas that Emilia-Romagna is renowned for. A wide variety of prepared foods are available for take-out, and among the choices was a lovely farro salad. A perfect side dish to bring to a barbecue or pot luck.

A great wine to enjoy with this would be a Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna, like the Lini Labrusca Rose.

Insalata di Farro Caprese

Serves 6

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped into 1/4 inch dice
1 clove garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups farro
1/2 cup white wine
4 cups chicken broth
2 large, fresh tomatoes, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
1 ball fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/4 inch pieces
10 basil leaves, thinly slices, or 1 tablespoon pesto
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat half of the olive oil in a sauce pan over medium high heat. Add the chopped onion and saute until beginning to soften, about 4 minutes.

Add the farro, and saute briefly, about 1 minute. Add the white wine and simmer until the wine is reduced by half or more.

Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the farro is done, about 15-20 minutes. This can vary quite a bit, depending upon the farro itself, so keep checking it. The chicken stock may not be totally absorbed before the farro is tender. If this is the case, simply pour the contents of the saucepan into a strainer (over the sink or a bowl) to remove the excess liquid. Transfer the farro into a large bowl and allow to cool.

When the farro is cool, combine with the tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature.

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Penne al Pomodoro Crudo

by chefbikeski Posted on August 31, 2012
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Penne al Pomodoro Crudo

One simple theme that unites the regional cooking styles across Italy is the use of fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. Right now, it is tomato season back home in New England, so I am using them as often as I can, before they disappear. The pink, hard, unripe tomatoes imported from Mexico and found in most supermarkets in December are hardly the same species. This recipe here is only worth making when you have access to fresh, flavorful and locally grown varieties.

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Fresh heirloom tomatoes, local mozzarella

Northeastern Italy, home to our bike and ski tours, does not use as much tomato based sauces as you will find in southern Italy. But the combination of mozzarella, fresh tomato, and basil – the Caprese salad, named for the island off the Amalfi coast – is ubiquitous throughout the country, and we see it often even up north. A delicious simple dish when made with wonderful fresh ingredients, incorporating the three colors of the national flag, you would be hard pressed to find a dish more representative of the country’s cuisine. But although tomatoes are today very much associated with Italian food, they are in fact a fairly recent addition.

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Caprese Salad in Marostica - with local white asparagus!

The tomato originated in western South and Central America. In 1519, Cortez discovered tomatoes growing in Montezuma’s gardens and brought seeds back to Europe – a path followed also by corn, potatoes, sweet potatoes and hot peppers, all introduced to Europe from South America. Initially, tomatoes were grown solely as ornamental plants as they are members of the deadly nightshade family and were erroneously thought to be poisonous.

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Pomi d'oro (Gold Apple)

The first variety of tomato to reach Europe was yellow in color, giving rise to the name they are known by in Italy today, pomi d’oro, meaning yellow apples. Italy was the first to cultivate the tomato outside South America. It flourished across the country, becoming very popular in southern regions. However, one of the regions we visit on our tours – Emilia-Romagna, played in critical role in the popularity of tomatoes in Italian cuisine. A visit to Parma can include a stop at three different food museums dedicated to the most renowned products of the region – parmegiano reggiano  cheese, prosciutto, and, for me a surprising third, tomatoes.

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Diced tomatoes

The incorporation of tomatoes in Italian cooking really took off in the mid-19th century. At that time, farmers around Parma let by Carlo Rognoni and Guiseppe Ferrari advanced the cultivation of tomatoes by developing new techniques and making them a particularly lucrative crop – much more so that the cereals they had been growing, and making an ideal plant to include in crop rotation. In 1874 Rognoni founded a company to produce tomato preserves. The ability to preserve tomatoes by canning allowed cooks in Italy to use these year round. This new product became quite popular in Italy, and also in America by way of  the many Italian immigrants that were making their way at the time to the US, and searching for a way to remember the cuisine of their homeland.

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Fresh Mozzarella

My recipe here is about as simple as you can get – when you have delicious fresh tomatoes, you don’t much all. The same few ingredients as found in the Caprese salad, combined with the best tomatoes you can find. I used a variety of locally grown heirloom tomatoes, including an actual yellow pomi d’oro, the colors making a very attractive sauce. Cut up the ingredients, allow them to sit a bit to develop the flavor, then serve over pasta.

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Sauce ingredients

Penne al Pomodoro Crudo (Penne with Raw Tomatoes)

3-4 large fresh tomatoes, cut into 1/4 inch dice
1 small red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 ball fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/4 inch dice
Extra virgin olive oil
Balsamic Vinegar
Kosher salt
15 basil leaves, cleaned and thinly sliced
1 lb. penne pasta

Combine tomatoes, red onion, garlic, and mozzarella. Add a couple of ‘glugs’ of olive oil – use your best judgement here, we’re keeping this simple. Drizzle a little balsamic, season with salt and basil. Toss to combine, and allow to sit for about an hour.

After an hour, place a large pot of water on the stove and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the penne, and cooking until al dente. Toss with the tomatoes and serve.

Enjoy with a crisp Soave, like those from Coffele, or a nice rose, like the Lageder Lagrein.

Posted in Mozzarella, Pasta, Tomato, Travel, Uncategorized, Vegetarian | 1 Comment

Conegliano, Italy – Great cycling and wine!

by chefbikeski Posted on August 24, 2012

 

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Castello di Conegliano

Conegliano is a town located in the Veneto region, in the province of Treviso. Located about 30 km north of the city of Treviso, it lies in the foothills of the Dolomites and is most noted for its wine, Italy’s favorite sparkling aperitif, Prosecco.

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Vineyards in Piave

We visit Conegliano on a couple of our bike tours, as it offers some wonderful routes for all levels of cyclists. Approaching from the south and west from Castelfranco, Montebelluno, and Treviso, we find flatter terrain along the Piave River valley which we explore during our Primavera del Prosecco bike tour. This valley is known for both the Piave DOP cheese as well as its’ own DOC wine zone, featuring the native Raboso varietal, one of Italy’s best ‘big’ reds.

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Prosecco hills

For those that desire more challenging terrain, we can climb some hills in the Prosecco wine region. Conegliano is one of the two end points of the preeminent locale for Prosecco production – the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG region. In these picturesque hillside vineyards, locals grow grapes for the best proseccos in the world. With advanced cyclists, we head north through Vittoria Veneto to the Bosco di Cansiglio. The Bosco (or forest) is where the Venetian’s obtained the wood needed for their sailing ships, back in the height of the Venetian republic when they were producing one ship per day.  Here, we tackle Passo Crosetta, a climb that has been part of the Giro d’Italia several times, and included on our Train Like a Local – Mid Mountain cycling tour.

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Terrace cafe at Castello

Conegliano itself is an interesting place to explore after our rides. A couple of spots well worth a visit include the Cathedral, dating from 1491, and adorned with important frescoes and paintings, including a renowned altarpiece from noted artist Cima di Conegliano. A short (but uphill) walk outside the city brings one to the Castello di Conegliano with its beautiful bell tower. At one time, this tower contained a large bell used to summon the populace and signal the start of the City Council meetings. Today, the Torre della Campana (bell tower), houses the Civic Museum, with a wonderful collection of paintings. After a tour of the gallery, stop and enjoy a snack, a glass of a local wine and the panoramic view from Ristorante “Al Castello”.

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Cecchetto Raboso 2007

Noted for its wines, Conegliano is the home of Italy’s oldest and most prestigious wine school, the Scuola Enologica. Conegliano is on the cusp of three distinct wine zones – the aforementioned Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, known for its quality prosecco, as well as two lesser known regions, the Piave and the Colli di Conegliano. The Piave DOC stretches from the hills near Conegliano south to the shores of the Adriatic. Piave is known for its’ wonderful indigenous varietal, Raboso, an ancient wine made here since before the time of the Roman empire. In this region today, you will find several local producers devoted to rediscovering and promoting this native treasure. Finally, the Colli di Conegliano DOCG produces some very interesting blends; its Rosso combines the native Marzemino grape with international varietals such as Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon to make a big, fruity, tannic wine. The Bianco is a crisp and fruity blend of Chardonnay and the local Incrocio Manzoni. Two very interesting and rare sweet wines are produced as well, the Rosso Refrontolo and the white Torchiato di Fregona.

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Chestnuts at Conegliano market

You will find some wonderful local food products as well on your visit. South of Conegliano, along the fertile planes of the Piave river, you will find fields of the local corn variety, Mais Biancoperla, considered the ideal grain for the delicate white polenta. The entire province of Treviso is known for its many different varieties of radicchio, many more than we come across here in the US. Cured meats, such as sopressa, salame and cotecchino are produced nearby, as well as various forms of preserved goose, as salame, prosciutto, or preserved in goose fat. Many superb cheeses hail from this area, include Montasio, Casatella Trevigiana, Taleggio, Urbiaco, Asiago, and, of course, Piave. To the north, in the Prealps, chestnuts have been cultivated for centuries, a food staple for many poorer families. They are one of few crops that can be grown on steep slopes, as well as produce during colder winter months. Chestnuts are typically dried, and then either boiled or ground up into flour and used in a variety of dishes, from breads and pastas to dessert. A market visit in the fall will always include a stop by the vendor who is roasting chestnuts, the wonderful aroma making it impossible not to stop for a few to snack on.

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Guanciale di vitello brasato

A nice place to enjoy a meal in Conegliano is Ristorante Al Salisa, right on Via XX Settembre. They offer an eclectic menu, with both traditional dishes (piatti tipici regionali) as well as more innovative plates, including curries and sushi. I enjoyed a delicious zuppe di fagioli (bean soup) on my last visit, as well as giuanciale di vitello (braised veal cheeks) served with polenta and vegetables.

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Rediscover Lambrusco – Not the wine you remember!

by chefbikeski Posted on August 21, 2012
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Lini 910 Labrusca Rose

My first introduction to Lambrusco was early on in my wine drinking days – the ‘infamous’ sweet Riunite sparkling wines that we all found very drinkable when we first began indulging (usually a bit too much) in alcoholic beverages. With a bit more sophisticated palate (I hope), I’ve moved on to other, more elegant wines, and didn’t have a Lambrusco for many years. Recently, however, I’ve rediscovered this grape, yet another overlooked gem. As with several other wines from Northeastern Italy, such as Soave and Valpolicella, Lambrusco was mass produced and low quality wines were imported in volume to the US in the 70s and 80s – at that time, Lambrusco was the biggest selling import wine in the US – earning these wines a poor reputation stateside that still follows them today.  Back in Italy, however, many smaller producers forged ahead, sticking with these varietals and investing in the development of prime vineyards (usually at higher elevation, and harder to cultivate) and enhanced production techniques. The result are wonderful wines that bear little or no resemblance to the wines we may remember from the 70s and 80s. Eric Asimov from the New York Times recently published an article about his ‘rediscovery’ of Lambrusco, Lambrusco Wants You Back.

Lambrusco is the name of both a family of red grapes, and the wines produced with them. Both are made in Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia, near Mantova, Modena, Parma and Reggio nell’Emilia. There are many varieties of the grape, over 60 have been identified throughout Italy. The most common ones, native to Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia are (all beginning with Lambrusco): Lambrusco Salamino, Sorbara, Marani, Maestri, Monterrico and Grasparossa.

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Rotonda di San Lorenzo, Mantova, Italy

Lambrusco wine production in this region dates as far back as the Etruscans and Romans. The vines were often trained to climb up trees, holding them high off the ground to prevent mildew. Lambrusco was valued for its productivity and high yields, which unfortunately probably led to its ‘abuse’ in the 70s.

Today, we can find fun, refreshing frizzante (slightly sparkling) wines produced in five Lambrusco DOC regions: Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamine di Santa Croce, Lambrusco Reggiano, Lambrusco Mantovano, and Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro. You will find whites, rose, as well as red sparkling wines. Most produced in Italy are dry, as the grape itself is not particularly sweet, but sweeter versions are produced either by only allowing for partial fermentation, or by blending with sweeter grapes, such as Ancelotta.

I recently found two Lambrusco wines at one of my favorite gourmet stores, Joppa Fine Foods in Newburyport, MA. Both are sparkling wines produced by the Lini winery, in Correggio, Emilia-Romagna. The Lini family celebrated its’ 100th year of winemaking in 2010, and today the wines are produced by fourth generation wine maker Alicia Lini. They offer a wide array of sparkling Lambruscos, white, rose and rosso, produced using both the Charmat method (the method used to produce prosecco, and most commonly used for Lambrusco), as well as the more labor intensive Metodo Classico (classic method used for champagne.)

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Labrusca Rose rear label

The two I tasted are the Lini 910 “Labrusca” Rose and Rosso. The historic “Labrusca” label is designed “to appeal to all consumers, satisfying the largest and most diverse clientele.” Both are vibrant, refreshing wines; fun wines at an affordable price point (under $20), perfect for a warm summer evening. Both are Emilia IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) wines, which indicates they are a blend of Lambrusco grapes from different DOC zones.

The Lini 910 rose is produced using the Charmat method, with the secondary fermentation taking place in stainless steel tanks over a period of 3 months.  According to the Lini web site, this results in finer bubbles “that aid in digestion.” It is a blend of 80% Lambrusco Salamino, with 20% Lambrusco Solara. One first appreciates its’ very attractive deep pink and intense aromas of rose and cherry. It has crisp, fresh palate and nicely balanced acidity. A wonderful accompaniment to a variety of antipasti, from seafood to cured meats and fresh cheeses, as well as light pastas.

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Lini 910 Labrusca Rosso

The Lini 910 rosso is a real experience, as red sparkling wines are few an far between – but this will have you wondering why we don’t see more of them! Again, produced using the Charmat method, from a blend of Lambrusco Salamino (85%) and the slightly sweet Lambrusco Ancelotta (15%). Dark ruby red in color, with scents of red fruits and berries – cherry, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry. Well-structured, with intense, refreshing flavors of cherry and dark berries, and a slightly tannic finish. This pairs well with white meats, roast pork, and hearty soups.

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