Val d’Oca Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene

Val D'Oca Cantina in Valdobbiadene

I’ve just returned from Italy, where we hosted our Italiaoutdoors September Chefs on Bikes tour. A great time, fantastic weather, good company and lots of great food and wines. After our guests left, I spent a wonderful couple of days exploring some of the 22 wine regions of the Veneto. We are planning several Bike  the Wine Roads trips in 2012, and I was investigating some of the producers we will feature. I visited several Prosecco wineries. During our trips, we’ve served on many occasions the proseccos from Val D’Oca, so that was one winery on my list to learn more about.

Val D'Oca vineyards in Cartizze - beautiful terraced vineyards high on the hill

The Val D’Oca Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene is a consortium of 600 growers, representing 614 hectares of vineyards in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG zone. Val D’Oca (Valley of the Goose, a big product of the region) was formed in 1952 by a far-sighted group of local growers who realized that, by joining forces, they would be in a better position to keep up with the rapidly changing market and technological advances in wine production.

For over 50 years this consortium has assisted its member growers in improving the quality of its wines, promoting their wines, training growers in the latest methods of cultivation, and now converting vineyards from traditional farming to organic. It also is continually investing in production improvements and quality control.

Val D'Oco Cartizze

I served two of the Val D’Oca proseccos during our last Chefs on Bikes tour. For our welcome aperitif, I like to serve a top notch prosecco, and the Val d’Oca Valdobbidene di Cartizze DOCG fits the bill. From the Cartizze “Grand Cru” area of  the region, the prime 107 hectares of vineyard real estate in Valdobbiadene, this prosecco is perfect for a special aperitif, or with desserts and biscotti. This is made from 100% Giera grapes, using the classic prosecco Charmat method. Soft, tiny bubbles accompany the pleasant aromas of apple and peach, with a clean, refreshing palate.

Val D'Oca Millesimato

A couple of days later, we began our cooking class with the Millesimato Val D’Oca. A winner of 4 grappoli from the Duemilavini awards of 2010, this was also wonderful. Aromas of apple with floral notes, it worked as an aperitif, but would also pair wonderfully with fish and shellfish.

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Roasted Figs with Grappa Mascarpone Cream

Fresh figs from the market today

With the exception of special occasions, I am a simple dessert person. Fruit desserts are my favorite – usually fairly easy to prepare, and healthy – or at least better for you than a concoction of sugar, butter, and cream. This recipe I’ve done at several cooking classes, changing it up to feature whatever is in season. In the spring, I make it with a mixture of berries; strawberries first, then blueberries and raspberries.

As I write, we are on our September Italiaoutdoors Chefs on Bikes trip through the Veneto, and fresh figs are plentiful, both green and black. Fig trees are common in the backyards we pass, all laden with their fruits this time of year. So I adapted the berry recipe to use figs. Small local honey producers are also common, providing lots of options for flavoring and sweeting the figs a bit – I used a chestnut honey. Finally, a few toasted walnuts provide a bit of crunch.

Our post-ride cooking class

My first choice was chestnuts for the garnish, but we are just a few weeks early; chestnuts, or marroni, will shortly be found in every market here. Grown in the woods just north of our stop in Asolo are the Marroni di Monfenera, a variety of chestnut with the IGP quality designation (Indicazione Geographical Protecta), verifying the origin and growing environment of the product. Chestnuts have been part of the cuisine here for hundreds of years, providing not just the nuts, but also flour. Today, the cured pork products from this area attribute their unique flavor to the chestnuts that are used for fodder for the pigs.

A little local grappa, from Poli in Bassano del Grappa, flavored the whipped cream. We visit Bassano today, and will do a grappa tasting at the Poli distillery, with a chance to purchase a bottle or two for home!

Roasted Figs with Grappa Mascarpone Cream

Serves 8

Roasted figs with honey

3/4 cup chilled whipping cream
1/2 8-ounce container mascarpone cheese
3 tablespoons confectioners sugar
3 tablespoons grappa

1/2 cup walnut halves (or chestnuts, if available)
1 tablespoon butter
32 fresh figs
1/2 cup walnut halves
1/4 cup honey
1 tablespoon grated lemon peel

Preheat the oven to 350°.

Combine whipping cream, mascarpone, 3 tablespoons sugar, and grappa in large bowl. Beat until soft peaks form.

Place the walnut halves on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until just beginning to brown. Remove from oven.Allow to cool slightly, then coarsely chop.

Butter a small baking dish. Wash the figs and remove the woody stem. Cut in half, and lay in the baking dish, cut side up. Place in the oven and roast until softened and beginning to brown, about 12 minutes. Remove from oven.

Drizzle the honey over the warm figs, and sprinkle with the lemon zest. Top with the walnuts, and serve on a plate with a large spoonful of the grappa cream. You can drizzle a bit of the grappa over the figs if you wish!

We paired this with a wonderful Picolit from Friuli Venezia-Giulia, which was enjoyed immensely by all! Another option is more grappa, of course.

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Bagnoli di Sopra

Cantina di Dominio di Bagnoli

The Bagnoli di Sopra DOC, established in 1995, covers an area that includes 15 municipalities in the Veneto province of Padua. The heart of this wine region is the town of Bagnoli di Sopra, an ancient Longobard village that grew up around the Benedictine monastery of San Michele Arcangelo. The Benedictine monks established themselves in this area, which was swampland when they arrived. These industrious monks set about reclaiming the land from the water, by building drainage and canal systems. Due to their hard work, cultivation of grapes and other crops became possible in this area.

For centuries, the wine produced here had been renowned in the neighboring villages, but its fame never went beyond the local boundaries. The DOC designation has begun to reverse this situation and make it possible for the producers of this wine to compete with other Veneto wines in the domestic and international markets. In my visits to wineries to prepare for our next Italiaoutdoors Chefs on Bikes trip to the Veneto, I made a stop in Bagnoli  to learn a bit more about the wines, and pick up a few to introduce to our guests. Even in the Veneto, I don’t see these much outside this DOC region itself.

Villa Widmann

The Cantina di Domino di Bagnoli is located in the center of Bagnoli di Sopra, in the Villa Widmann. The Widmann family owned most of these vineyards, beginning in 1656 when they purchased  them from Pope Alexander VII. During the 17th century, this family development most of the cellars for these vineyards, and the wines enjoyed quite a good reputation within the local area.

The most interesting wine of this DOC is the Friularo, a full-bodied red made with the indigenous Raboso grapes, named after an affluent of the Piave. This is a round, mellow wine that is at its best after at least two years of aging. In its “Vendemmia Tardiva” (late harvest) version, the grapes are gathered only as they start to wither.

Inside Cantina

Some researchers believe that the Friularo wine hails from the Friuli region of Italy; transferred by the De Widmann family. Others disagree, claiming that in Veneto dialect it would be said friulan or furlan, coming from the Latin frigos or frius (cold), and aro, meaning “he who was”. Therefore Friularo is a grape that ripens with the cold. Friularo  is an extremely late maturing grape and is traditionally harvested after the Bagnoli Friularo Festival, in October, and partly after the summer of St. Martin, in the second half of November. Friularo is also an exceptionally hardy variety, managing to survive the phylloxera epidemic in the late 18th century. The river Adige today passes only a few miles away from the Bagnoli region: this alluvial terroir gives the wine a singular structure and body, and enhances the aromas through cool summer nights.

Bagnoli di Sopra Friularo

I picked up a bottle of the Friulano Riserva (aged 2 years) as well as the Bianco. I’ll post a review from myself and our guests when we taste these in the next couple of days!

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Corti Benedettine del Padovano DOC

Large barrels at Sansovino in Corti Benedettine de Padovano DOC

Another trip to Italy – and another chance to explore the wines I can’t find back in the US. There are several regions in the Veneto that have been on my list to check out, and I was able to hit two today. The Corti Benedettine del Padovano DOC lies in both the provinces of Padua and Venezia, south of Padua. Established in 2004, this DOC recognizes the role the Benedictine monks played in the social and economic development of this area.

This territory lies between the rivers Brenta and Adige and the Adriatic, an alluvial plain subject to  periods of severe flooding over the years. From the 12th century, the Benedictine monks have made their home in this plain, putting huge amounts of effort into reclaiming these wetlands. While also battling wars, malaria outbreaks, and famine, they managed to build canals and drainage systems to create Corti. A Corte was the heart of their reclamation effort, and would contain the quarters where the friars lived, as well as houses for the farm laborers.  These Corti became the social, economic and administrative centers for these large estates for almost 1000 years. The monks were the leaders of the efforts to prepare the land here for cultivation. The wines produced on the lands reclaimed in this area became a major commodity, exchanged with the nearby towns of Padua and Venice, and through the Venetian port, cities across the Adriatic.

Sansovino VIgneti e Cantina

Cultivation of wines in this fairly damp region requires a great deal of local expertise. But local winegrowers have had success with both indigenous grapes as well as (relatively) newly introduced international varietals. Historically, varietals such as Raboso, Refosco, Tocai and Moscato Giallo have been cultivated here (on my list of top undiscovered wines in Northeastern Italy), and today wine-growers also produce what international varietals that thrive in the excellent local climate and soil conditions: Merlot, Cabernet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco. Most wines in this DOC are best served young, when then exhibit fresh floral notes; others are better left to develop greater complexity with a bit of aging.

Corti Benedettine Raboso

I visited what is listed at the contact address for this DOC – the Sansovino Vigneti & Cantina in Conselve today. The small store had a nice mix of local wines; along with the Corti Benedettine, there were a few from the Bagnoli di Sopra DOC, and a nice variety of IGT wines from the Veneto and Colli Treviso. I purchased a Sansovino Raboso and a Pinot Grigio from Corti Benedettine, as well as a Bagnoli di Sopra Frulano. Definitely worth a stop back to try some other local wines. We’ll taste these with our guests on our Italiaoutdoors Chefs on Bikes trip that starts on Sunday. We’ll be riding through these vineyards during the first days of our trip.

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Risotto con Radicchio Trevigiano e Ubriaco

Risotto con Radicchio di Trevigiano e Ubriaco

Currently, I am working on the recipes for our upcoming Italiaoutdoors Chefs on Bikes tour of the Veneto. I like to include dishes that incorporate the wonderful products of the Veneto region, reflect the traditional cuisine of the area, and are ones that our guests would be able to prepare in their own kitchens when they return home. I’ve done many classes introducing risottos, and students always enjoy them, as the technique is pretty straightforward, and there are so many options to make this dish different every time.

Cored chioggia radicchio

Radicchio is one of the foremost products of the region – there are 4 different varieties that are officially recognized with the IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) or DOP (Denominazione Origine Protetta) designations. Both designations protect these products from lower quality competitors using the same names, dictating the region, production methods, varieties and other details of the production process. There are four of these in the Veneto region alone, for four different types of radicchio, with many other wonderful varieties available as well. The beautiful walled city of Treviso is radicchio ‘central’ of the Veneto region, and a biking destination on our trip. I love this slightly bitter vegetable, and can find locally grown Chioggia radicchio right now in New England, so a radicchio risotto is a perfect dish to include.

Radicchio snack at Treviso enoteca

Often risottos are made with a bit of wine being the first addition of liquid; prosecco is what I’ve chosen to include, reflecting again the Treviso region. Finishing the risotto with a cheese is traditional, my choice in this recipe is a Ubriaco Prosecco, another product from the Veneto region. This cheese is washed with the pomace, or grape must, leftover from the wine production process, which makes a very tasting and tangy cheese that will stand up well to the radicchio. My local cheese shop carries the Ubriaco Prosecco on a regular basis, but a grana padano would make a good substitute.

Ubriaco Prosecco and Vialone Nano

One other Veneto product I’ve included here is marroni, or chestnuts. In September, these are found at every market, freshly roasted and ready for snacking. In the forests of northern and western Veneto, as well as north in Trentino and east in Friuli, chestnuts have been a traditional food since ancient times, used as is, or as chestnut flour. It is even used as pig fodder, and required feed for some of the IGP and DOP prosciuttos. In  the US, I will substitute walnuts when I can’t find good chestnuts.

Finally, my choice for rice – the Vialone Nano rice is the IGP rice from the Veneto region traditionally used in the risottos of the region. The Grumolo della Abbadessa area, right outside of Vicenza, is renowned for this rice, which has been cultivated here for hundreds of years. I have managed to find this here, at Micuci’s Market in Portland, ME, but a Carnaroli or Arborio rice would make a great choice as well.
Risotto con Radicchio Trevigiano e Ubriaco

Serves 4

Thinly sliced radicchio

About 6 1/2 cups vegetable stock
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 onion, chopped into 1/4 inch dice
1 stalk celery, chopped into 1/4 inch dice
1 clove garlic, minced
1 head radicchio, cored and cut into thin strips (chiffonade)
2 cups risotto rice, preferably Vialone Nano
1/2 cup prosecco or white wine
3/4 cup grated Ubriaco cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground peper
1/2 cup toasted chestnuts
8 basil leaves, cut into thin strips (chiffonade)

Bring the stock to a boil in a large pot.

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery, and cook until soft and translucent, about 5-7 minutes. Add the garlic and radicchio; cook for 1 minute.

Radicchio risotto

Add the rice. Stir for about 1 minute. Add the prosecco, and simmer until it has evaporated. Stir in a ladleful of the stock. Cook, adding the stock a ladleful at a time, and allowing it to be absorbed by the rice before adding more. Cook until the rice is just tender to the bite, or ‘al dente’. You may not use all of the stock.

Stir in the cheese, and season with salt and pepper. Divide between 4 serving plates, garnish with walnuts and basil and serve.

And what wine to pair with this? A sparkling prosecco from Treviso, of course!

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