I found this wine on a recent trip to Baltimore to visit family. It spoke to me from the racks of a wine shop/cafe we visited for lunch. When in a new wine store, I always check out the selection of wines, to expand my tastings of wines from Northeastern Italy. Here I discovered a Vernatsch, a wine from the Sudtirol region of Alto Adige. The label is written in English, as well as Italian and German. This region of Italy only became part of Italy following World War I. Before that, it was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and you will still find German speakers there today.
This is an indigenous varietal, very popular in Italy and Germany, but yet another example of wonderful wines Italians mostly keep to themselves! Vernatsch is a black skinned grape that carries many names; the German speakers in the region use Vernatsch. Italians use Schiava, which means ‘slave’ in Italian, but probably traces its origin to Slovinia, the reputed source of this grape. Germans today drink this same varietal, called Trollinger, which is likely derived from Tyrolinger. And finally, if you purchase this grape in Germany for consumption at your table, it is called Black Hamburg.
Schiava or Vernatsch wines are primarily exported to the German-speaking countries to the north. The best known come from around picturesque Lake Caldaro, or Kalterersee. This DOC is actually one of Italy’s largest DOC producers, with over 20 million liters per year. But you will find Schiava wines produced throughout the Sudtirol, along the Adige river into Trentino and even as far south as the Veneto, where they are produced under the Valdadige DOC.
I tasted the 2008 BellDes Sudtirol Vernatsch. The producer here, BellDes, is a cooperative run by DeSilva vineyards (Des) and their winemaker, Christian Belluti (Bell). The focus on indigenous Alto-Adige varietals. This wine is 100% Vernatsch, and hails from vineyards around Lago di Caldaro near Tramin, Alto-Adige. It is produced using traditional mash fermentation in stainless steel tanks. It ages for 6 months in the bottle prior to its release.
This wine can often be dismissed by wine ‘connoisseurs’ as undistinguished and mundane. I am enjoying it with some nice antipasti cheeses as I write this. It is fruity, with cherry and red fruit flavors, hints of almond and violet, and a bit of mineral. It is low in tannins, which will disappoint if you are looking for a huge red. But perfect for a nice lunch with grilled chicken, or with an antipasti with fresh cheeses and speck.
Now is the season for soft shell crabs here on the US east coast. One of my favorites, the availability is limited to only a couple of weeks a year. In the US, the term ‘soft-shell’ crabs refers to blue crabs that have just recently shed there hard ‘exo-skeleton’, and for a brief time have a ‘soft’ shell until it matures and the shell becomes hard again. While the shell is soft, we can enjoy the entire crab, and you will see it often pan-fried, deep-fried, sauteed, and less commonly, grilled.
Moleche at Rialto
Soft shell crabs are a seasonal Venetian treat as well, there referred to as moleche. These crabs are a different species than found here in the US, they are smaller (about 2-3 inches), and are available twice a year – in the fall and spring. Click here to learn more about the moleche.
Moleche with Polenta
Every fish restaurant in Venice will feature soft shell crabs on its menu during the season. We were lucky enough to be in Venice last September with one of our Chefs on Bikes trips, and were treated to some wonderful Venetian soft shell crabs are our welcome dinner at Villa Margherita. They were simply sauteed, and served in a very traditional manner with grilled polenta. I have typically deep fried or pan fried them, but decided this year to try an even simpler preparation – grilling.
Cleaning the soft shell crabs here in the US is easy, but not for the faint of heart, as the crabs are alive (or should be, otherwise don’t buy them!). You can have your fishmonger do this if you are planning to prepare them immediately. There are two steps to the cleaning – the first being to remove the ‘face’ of the crab. This is most easily done with a pair of kitchen shears. You make a quick cut across the top of the crab, removing the eyes and ‘head’. The next step is to remove the apron. Flip the crab over on its back, and you will find a large flap which you can pull away from the crab. Again using kitchen shears, cut this flap off. Some people also like to remove the lungs, which you can do through the cut you made as you removed the head. I don’t bother with this step. Now you are ready to fry, saute, or grill your crabs
Grilled Soft Shell Crabs with Spring Onions and Chive-Garlic Scape Mayonnaise
Serves 4
8 soft shell crabs, cleaned
8-12 spring onions (depending on size)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup mayonnaise, preferable homemade
1 tablespoon chives
2 garlic scapes (the top shoot on a garlic plant), coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon capers, preferably salted, rinsed and coarsely chopped
4 cups mixed salad greens
Olive oil for drizzling
Preheat your grill.
Place the crabs and spring onions on a sheet pan, and brush with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.
Place the mayonnaise, chives and garlic scapes in a food processor. Blend briefly to combine. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the capers.
Soft Shell Crabs on grill
Place the crabs and onions on the grill. The crabs will cook fairly quickly; the onions could take longer if they are large, so you could may want to start those first. The shoots on the onions will cook more quickly than the larger bulbs, you can place a sheet of aluminum foil under the shoots to protect them from the heat while the bulbs cook through. The crabs will take about 3 minutes per side.
Serve the crabs on a bed of mixed greens, which have been seasoned with salt and pepper and drizzled with olive oil. Top with the spring garlic and serve with a spoonful of the chive garlic scape mayonnaise on the side.
The mayonnaise is great the next day on a fresh tomato sandwich.
What to serve with it? A nice fresh white – try the Ottella La Creete, from the Lugana DOC in the Veneto, at the southern end of beautiful Lago di Garda.
Teroldego is considered the king of Trentino wines. Legend has it that the name itself derives from Tiroler Gold, the gold from Tyrol, which is how this wine was referred to at court in Vienna. However, it more likely takes its name from its traditional method of cultivation, in which it is trained on a system of “tirelle” or wire harnesses. Recent DNA analysis has revealed that it is related to the French varietals Dureza and Syrah. Some authorities compare Teroldego to Zinfandel, with its spicy red fruits, but this is not accurate. Its acidity and snap makes it a versatile food wine. This is why the Teroldego Rotaliano wines made my Top 10 Undiscovered Wines of Northeastern Italy list – a great example of the amazing wines this region holds, which we discover as we bike, hike, walk or ski in this area during our active tours.
It flourishes only in the Piana Rotaliana area, and, in spite of many efforts to reproduce the vineyards, environment, and irrigation in other regions, no one has successfully replicated these high quality wines anywhere else. For many years, it was used exclusively as a blending wine, mixed with sub-standard grapes to produce a only somewhat drinkable wine. Eventually, the producers realized the benefits of eliminating the inferior grapes and producing a high quality single varietal wine, and we are just beginning to see some of the benefits of this decision. Teroldego wines are quite distinctive, with intense fruit, full body, and a strong, dry taste.
Back Label
Elisabetta Foradori took over her family estate in 1985. Her families’ vineyards lie in the side valley of Campo Rotaliano. Elisabetta has garnered quite a reputation as one of the premier producers of Teroldego, which has greatly helped expand the interest in this indigenous varietal. Here, the vines are farmed organically, with older ‘heirloom’ plants that Elisbetta, in conjunction with the department of viticulture at the University of Milan, was responsible for identifying and propagating.
I tasted the Teroldego Rotaliano 2008, which is the lower level bottling of Foradori Teroldegos, and is produced from a combination of estate as well as purchased grapes, 100% Teroldego. It is barrel aged for 20 months, and is made for earlier consumption. This Foradori Teroldego is a great introduction to this varietal, displaying dark fruit and sweet cherry with a bit of spice and floral notes, along with chocolate and herbs. Similar in style to a Syrah, it has a robust, full bodied palate, with a nice balance of tannins and acidity. A wonderful companion to a hearty pork dish, or a flavorful vegetable such as radicchio.
This fall, Italiaoutdoors is leading two bike trips that explore the wine roads of the Veneto and Trentino regions of Northeastern Italy. Each day, on these or on any of our custom tours, as we wind our way through the beautiful countryside, we will discover the unique wines that have been cultivated here for generations. In Italy, these wine territories are designated as DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) zones. The types of grapes and production methods in each zone are strictly controlled by the government, and this designation is an indication of the quality of the wine.
As we travel on our active tours, be it biking, hiking, walking or skiing, my favorite wines to introduce to our guests are those they have never experienced before. Across the Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia, there is a new wine region with its own traditional wines, remarkable terroir and distinctive winemaking style around every corner, and an amazing number of them are relatively, if not completely, undiscovered in the US.
Here are my favorites – my top 10 undiscovered wines from Northeastern Italy. We’ll savor a Tai Rosso and Raboso on our upcoming Bike the Wine Roads of the Veneto trips this fall. Ski trips this winter will give us lots of opportunities to taste Teroldego and Lagrein wines, and visits next season to Friuli will include a few tastes of Friulano and Picolit.
Fruilano
1. Friulano (the wine formerly know as Tocai Friulano or Tocai Italico).
Tocai Friulano is the pride and joy of the Collio wine region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. So Friulians were not particularly happy when the EU dictated that the only wine that could use the Tocai name was the Hungarian dessert wine, Tokay. After much debate, a new name was decided upon – Friulano – and after 2006 winemakers in the region were no longer allowed to use the Tocai name. However, you will still hear the wine referred to as Tocai throughout the region (and Italy). Friulano is clean, delicate, refreshing white wine with a palate that varies according to the terroir. It appears as both a varietal and in blends.
2. Ribolla Gialla
This grape, believed to have originated in the Colli Orientali di Friuli, produces a wonderful white that is almost unknown outside the region. The phylloxera epidemic of the 19th century destroyed many of the Ribolla plantings, which were replanted with imported grapes like Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. By the 1990s less than 1% of all white Friuli DOC wines contained Ribolla. Most recently, renewed international interest in the wines of the Friuli has thankfully led to an increase in plantings of the grape. It is lively and flavorful, and pairs well with many dishes, from seafoods to fruit.
3. Vino Santo
The Trentino region is renowned for its Vino Santo, a sweet wine made from dried grapes. This is not to be confused with the Vin Santo produced in Tuscany – this is a uniquely traditional product of the region, incorporating the native Nosiola varietal, and a treat not to be missed on a visit to the region. Nosiola is the oldest white grape variety grown in Trentino, believed to have originated in the Pressano hills and Sarca valley.
Teroldego
4. Picolit
Also known as Piccolit and Piccolito, Picolit is a white Italian wine grape grown in the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC zone of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The name comes from piccolo, or small, due to the fact that this grape has very low yields. which continue to challenge the growers to make it an economically viable product. The Picolit grapes are characterized by a nice balance of sugar and acidity, resulting in a well-balanced dessert wine with soft floral aromas and stone fruit flavors.
5. Teroldego
Teroldego is considered the king of Trentino wines. Legend has it that the name itself derives from Tiroler Gold, the gold from Tyrol. It flourishes only in the Piana Rotaliana area, and, in spite of many efforts to reproduce the vineyards, environment, and irrigation in other regions, no one has successfully replicated these high quality wines anywhere else. Teroldego wines are quite distinctive, with intense fruit, full body, and a strong, dry taste.
6. Marzemino
Originally produced in the Rovereto region of Trentino, Marzemino was introduced by the Venetians in the 16th century. In Mozarts’ opera, Don Giovanni, Giovanni himself makes his last request before his deliverance to hell – a glass of Marzemino. This is a delicate, mellow wine with intense fruit and floral elements. It is a lighter bodied wine, and is not aged for too long – two to three years is optimum.
7. Raboso
Raboso is an ancient wine, grown in the Piave River valley of the Veneto region before the time of the Roman Empire. At one point, this grape was perhaps the most important variety of eastern Veneto, but, as with many indigenous grapes, saw native planting replace by international varietals in the 20th century. At full maturity, Raboso is one of the great Italian reds, dry and full-flavored with an intense ruby red color and its typical bouquet of spicy cherries.
Refosco rose
8. Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso
Refosco is a family of dark-skinned varietals native to the northern Italian areas of Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Trentino. The grape is also known as Terlan or Terlano. The origins of this varietal are not clear, but DNA analysis has shown that it is related to Marzemino. Refosco produces deeply colored wines that aged well, with very intense and concentrated flavors, and a slightly bitter finish. A rose are also available.
9. Lagrein
Lagrein is a red grape native to the Lagarina valley in Trentino-Alto Adige. Along with Marzemino and Refosco, it is a descendant of Teroldego, and related to Syrah, Pinot Noir and Dureza. It is rarely seen outside of the region. Lagrein grapes produce wines that exhibit a high acidity, and even the free run juice is tannic. Lagrein produces a very deep yet intense red color in wine, with flavors of dark berry and cherry, and notes of tobacco and mushrooms. A rose version is also produced.
Tai Rosso
10. Tocai or Tai Rosso:
Tai Rosso, an indigenous varietal cultivated in the Colli Berici of the Veneto region, where it arrived from Hungary. In spite of its alleged origins, is not related to the Hungarian Tokay; most experts believe that it is more likely related to the Sardinian Cannonau or Granache. Before 2007, it was called Tocai Rosso, but since the regulations restricted the use of the Tocai name, it has been changed to Tai Rosso. This is a lighter red wine, clear and brilliant, with a bright red color, and a balanced, harmonious taste with a hint of cherries.
Previously, I’ve covered several gnocchi recipes in my posts, from a potato gnocchi to a buckwheat squash version. It’s a food common to all the regions we visit with Italiaoutdoors, and there are so many different and interesting preparations. From potato, buckwheat, ricotta, mixed with meats from prosciutto to spleen, cheeses, and all sorts of greens, not to mention squash and bread, it has been a way to put all your leftovers to use for centuries. I don’t think I’ll run out of material on this subject for quite some time! On my Italiaoutdoors web site, there is a brief overview of the various different types of gnocchi we see in the Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
Stuffing balls
I recently came across a wonderful book on the regional foods of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, entitled Flavors of Friuli by Elisabeth Antoine Crawford. Interesting and well-done recipes, combined with great information on the producers and restaurateurs of the region makes it a fantastic resource for me. This latest recipe for gnocchi comes from there – “Gnocchi Croccanti di Sauris”. It is a gnocchi that has been stuffed with cheese and prosciutto, then pan seared after it has been first cooked in water. The prosciutto in this recipe is the wonderful local Prosciutto di Sauris, which I have never seen here in the US. Substitute another high quality prosciutto, like the San Daniele, also from Friuli.
I’ve seen several recipes for gnocchi croccanti, but many are not stuffed, just simply pan seared to finish. In Friuli, there is another classic gnocchi dish, Gnocchi di Susine, which is also a stuffed gnocchi, this one a sweet gnocchi which has been stuffed with fruit.
Riced potatoes
Having made, and taught how to make, gnocchi on many occasions, I’ve learned to secret to light gnocchi is twofold; first, rice the potatoes when warm, then allow them to cool. Second, use as little flour as possible, and handle it as little as possible. This second tip becomes a bit more difficult when you are stuffing the gnocchi. So I started with my standard gnocchi recipe, with the plan to increase the flour only as necessary to get the dough around the stuffing.
Forming the gnocchi
It ends up I didn’t really need to increase the flour at all. Once the dough was together, it was a bit sticky, but as long as I kept my hands clean and dusted with a little bit of flour, I was able to form the dumplings. I do elect to bake my potatoes that I use for gnocchi, rather than boil them. I baked them for well over an hour, and I live in a dry climate, although it is rainy and humid today. But having dry (and cool) potatoes will decrease the amount of flour that you will need.
Finished dumplings, ready to cook
Here is my modified version of Elisabeth’s recipe. I would suggest just keeping the flour close by while you are forming the dumplings. If it is too wet, add a bit and try again.
As I am still living in a remote part of Maine, with limited access to things like Prosciutto di Sauris and Montasio – today, even arugula – I’ve substituted with sopressa, grated Sapore di Asiago, and my green of choice right now, local fiddleheads.
Gnocchi Croccanti di Sauris
Serves 6
Filling:
8 ounces prosciutto, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup grated aged cheese, such as grana or montasio
1 tablespoon whole milk
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
Dough:
1 1/2 pounds potatoes
3/4 cup all purpose flour
1 tablespoon salt
1 egg, beaten
6 tablespoons butter, divided
12 ounces arugula, or other green
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped chives
Preheat the oven to 400°.
Pierce the potato in several places with a knife. Set in the oven and bake until very tender, about an hour, depending upon the size of the potatoes.
For the filling:
Place the prosciutto, cheese, and milk in a food processor and pulse to combine. Stir in the chives. Form the mixture into 3 dozen balls, of about 1/2 teaspoon each.
For the dough:
Remove the potatoes from the oven, and allow to cool only 5 minutes or so. Rice the potatoes with a ricer, or press it through a large mesh sieve. Allow to cool to room temperature. Add the flour and salt, and combine with the potatoes until well mixed, but still fluffy. Add the egg and mix just until you form a soft dough.
Taking a bit of the dough, about 1 scant tablespoon, press it out on the palm of your hand. Place one of the filling balls in the center, and wrap the dough around it. Keep a bit of flour nearby to dust your hands, and when the dough starts to stick take a moment to rub your hands together to remove the dough and dust them again with flour. Roll each dumpling gently to form an oblong shape.
To prepare:
Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to boil over high heat. Salt the water. Working in small batches, place the gnocchi in the water – don’t overcrowd them. Cook until the gnocchi rise to the surface; using a slotted spoon, remove them and place on a sheet pan in a single layer.
Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the greens and saute until tender. The time will vary depending on the greens; from a couple of minutes for arugula to 6-7 minutes for a chard, or fiddleheads. Add the garlic a minute or so before they are done. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper.
Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large saute pan over medium high heat. Add half of the gnocchi, again, don’t overcrowd. Cook until the bottoms are crisp and golden brown, about 3-5 minutes. Turn, and cook the other side until brown. Don’t force them to turn, they will release from the bottom of the pan when they are seared. Remove and repeat with the remaining gnocchi.
Place the greens on 6 warmed plates. Top with the gnocchi, and drizzle any remaining butter over the dish. Garnish with chopped chives.
I’ll go off the beaten path here and recommend a red with this – it is delicious, but can be a bit heavy.. I think the La Biancara Rosso Masieri would pair nicely; the slight mineral tingle it offers would cut through the butter.
