Gnocchi con Crema di Montasio, Speck e Semi di Papavero (Gnocchi with Montasio Cheese, Speck and Poppy Seeds)

by chefbikeski Posted on March 28, 2011

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Poppy seeds are quite popular in the cuisine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, but are seen very rarely in regions outside of Northeastern Italy. These seeds are obtained from the opium poppy. but have no narcotic effect! They can be used whole or ground, or pressed to produce poppy seed oil.

Poppy seeds are used in many cuisines of Central Europe – Austrian, Czech, Hungarian, German and Slovac. There appearance in the cuisine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia is one more example of the influence of these areas on the foods of this region of Italy.

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Semi di Papavero (Poppy Seeds)

The city of Trieste lies on the Adriatic, and throughout history was a very active trading port, as Austria lavished money and attention on the principal port of the Hapsburg and then Austro-Hungarian empire. Here, spices of all types arrived to be carried north to Austria, Germany and elsewhere in Central Europe. These spices were often transported by cramars, traveling peddlers who lived in the mountains of Carnia in the northernmost section Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Originally settled by the Celts, who brought with them a talent for land management, and began by raising livestock in this region. When winter approached, and grazing was limited, these pig farmers would load up with spices, leave their families behind and made a difficult trek north through the Alps to Austria and Germany to pick up some additional income by selling their wares.

As many of these spices were believed to have medicinal benefits, these cramars became a sort of medicinal healer as well, selling mixtures of spices and dried herbs as remedies. Any of these spices that were not sold ended up being used in the kitchens of this region. You see them in many baked sweets, breads, and salad dressings, just as you do here in the US, but they also appear in pastas and sauces.

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Our finished gnocchi

This recipe is a variation of one from “La Terra Fortunata”, by Fred Plotkin. I used my favorite potato gnocchi recipe, which I have posted before, by Jody Adams. Also, in “La Terra Fortunata”, the photo of the recipe indicates that speck is used, but the recipe itself does not include it. I do. Montasio cheese was not available for me, so I used a combination of cheeses from northeastern Italy, a grana and two types of Piave, a younger and a more aged (stravecchio) version.

This was one of my favorite recipes to play with – I made gnocchi with my 19 year old son Colin and his girlfriend Kelly, both visiting during his spring break. Once the potatoes are cooked, the gnocchi takes only minutes when you have a few willing hands to help. Colin is living on his own next year at college, and is looking to pick up some cooking tips. He is planning on making a big batch of these, and freezing them. But this sauce is great over pasta as well, so if he doesn’t quite get around to making the gnocchi, he’ll still have one dish up his sleeve!

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Ingredients

Gnocchi con Crema di Montasio, Speck, e Semi di Papavero

Serves 4 to 6

1 recipe Potato Gnocchi
2 cups grated cheese, an assortment of aged and semi-aged: Montasio, Piave, Grana
1/3 cup light cream
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
4 ounces speck or prosciutto, roughly chopped

Set a large pot of water over high heat and bring to a boil.

Heat the cream over medium heat in a large saute pan to just a simmer. Add the grated cheese and stir gently while everything melts. Turn off the heat.

Floating gnocchi

When the water comes to a boil, salt until the water is salty like sea water. Add the gnocchi to the pot. Do not crowd too much; cook in batches. As soon as the gnocchi float to the top, remove them with a slotted spoon or spider, and add to the saute pan with the cheese.

When all the gnocchi has been cooked, add the poppy seeds and speck. Turn on the heat to medium, and stir to heat through. Serve immediately.

Fred Plotkin suggests serving the gnocchi in a frico flower for a more elegant presentation. The instructions for a frico flower are below. I don’t think Colin will be using this presentation at college.

Frico Flowers

Sprinkle grana in mold

Makes 4 flowers

1 cup grated grana or Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese

Also needed:
A 7” square of plastic or cardboard
Two 5” bowls
Parchment paper or Silpat

Preheat oven to 350°.

To make the mold: Using a piece of cardboard, or a sheet of plastic, cut a circle 7” in diameter. Cut a second circle, 5” in diameter, in the middle of the 7” circle. You will use the outer ring, not the 5” circle.

Fricos ready for transfer to bowls

Place a piece of parchment paper or a silpat on a sheet pan. Place the ring on one half of the sheet pan, and sprinkle 1/4 of the cheese in a very thin layer over the empty circle in the middle. Carefully, lift the ring off, leaving a thin circle of grated cheese. Repeat on the other side of the sheet pan.

Place the sheet pan in the oven, and cook until the cheese has melted and is just beginning to brown. Remove from oven, and quickly (the cheese needs to be warm) carefully lift each circle and place in a 5” bowl. Allow to cool, and the circle will harden in the shape of the bowl.

Repeat to make the last two flowers.

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Orzotto con Funghi e Rucola

by chefbikeski Posted on March 20, 2011
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Cooking orzotto in a class

Northern Italy is well-known for its wide variety of risotto dishes made from the wonderful indigenous rices. But we can apply the same techniques to other grains, many of which are nutritionally superior to rice.

In Italian, barley is “orzo”, providing much confusion for us Americans who are familiar with a rice-shaped small pasta by the same name. To make matters more confusing, Americans make a risotto type dish from this orzo pasta. In Friuli Venezia Giulia, a very typical regional dish is a ‘risotto’ made with barley, or orzo, called orzotto. I have seen recipes in the US for an orzotto, but often these are made with orzo pasta, not barley.

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Orzo Perlato

There are two types of barley found in Italy, mondo or hulled barley, which has been minimally processed to remove the hull. It is fiber-rich, and contains several high quality proteins. Perlato, or pearled barley, has been processed further in order to remove the germ and some of the bran. The grains are rounder, and it contains about 30% less nutrients. The mondo barley is used primarily in soups. The perlato barley cooks much faster, and is more often called for in recipes than the mondo type. When cooking with pearled barley, be aware that the amount of ‘pearling’ can vary from type to type, so the cooking time can vary significantly. The more it resembles a elongated grain, the longer it will take to cook.

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Orzo Perlato at market

Barley has been cultivated in Italy since ancient times, probably one of the first grains consumed in its wild form. Roman legionnaires would march off to battle with a bag of barley, which they would later boil in their helmets, making a hearty porridge. Its’ reputation for sustaining fighting forces was widespread; according to Pliny, barley was the special food of gladiators, who were also known as hordearii, or ‘barley eaters’.

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Ingredients

Barley is no longer a commonly found grain in the Veneto region, but it appears occasionally, in dishes like Crema d’Orzo al Latte (Barley Crema with Milk), a porridge type dish, similar to oatmeal in which barley replaces the oats. As we move north and east from the Veneto, however, we see more barley being cultivated and consumed today. It is particularly well-suited for cultivation at high altitudes, making it an important grain in the mountainous Trentino and Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions.

In Trentino, it is cultivated in the Adige valley, to the south of Bolzano. In this region, maize or corn is the most important grain, but wheat, oats and barley are grown here has well.

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Finishing off orzotto

In Friuli Venezia Giulia, barley is one of the most important grains, having been introduced to the area by Jewish peoples who settled in Trieste. Here, the pasta e fagioli (pasta and bean soup) common throughout Italy morphs into orzo e fagoili, barley and bean soup. Also, risottos in this region become ‘orzotto’ when the Vialone Nano rice is replaced with orzo.

Mushroom and Arugula Orzotto

Serves 6

7 1/2 cups vegetable or chicken stock
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, minced
1 shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 cups mixed mushrooms, coarsely chopped
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 cups pearl barley
1 cup red wine
6 cups baby arugula
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring the stock to a boil. Lower heat to maintain a simmer.

Heat the oil in a large pan, add the onion and shallot, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 1 more minute.

Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they start to release their juices. Taste, and season with salt and pepper.

Add the barley. Stir and allow to toast for about 5 minutes, and then add the red wine. Cook until most of the red wine has evaporated. Reduce heat.

Add a ladleful of stock to the barley – about 1/2 cup. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the stock has been absorbed. Continue to add the stock, 1/2 cup at a time, and cooking until the liquid has been absorbed before adding more. The barley is finished when creamy and tender, about 35 – 45 minutes; you may not need all of the stock.

Stir in the arugula and cook until slightly wilted, about 1 minute. Stir in the cheese and butter. Season with salt and pepper.

A perfect pairing with this would be a wonderful Tocai Fruiliano, Pinot Grigio, or Pinot Bianco from Friuli Venezia Giulia.

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Colli Berici DOC Wines – our next stop, with Chef Susan Regis!

by chefbikeski Posted on March 15, 2011
Vineyard in the Berici Hills

Located in the rolling volcanic hills just south of Vicenza, the Colli Berici DOC has been in the business of producing wines for thousands of years, but remains unfamiliar to many outside of the Veneto region. Traces of grape cultivation found in the area date back to over 3000 years BC. The volcanic minerals found in the soil here, in combination with its mild climate continue provide an idea environment for vineyards. Besides soil and climatic conditions, the quality of the wine from the Berici Hills derives from the passion of generations of wine-growers who established the Protection Consortium in 1982.

Strada dei Vini

In the Berici Hills, the Strada dei Vini (Wine Road) follows a charming itinerary along vineyards following the line where plain and hills meet. Several villas, villages, retreats and convents stand testimony to the lure the area has had throughout the ages. Còvoli, prehistoric natural caves, and fortified castles dating to tenth and eleventh centuries are treasures bearing witness to mans’ presence in these charming hills during the past ages. We are fortunate enough to have James Beard Award Winning Chef Susan Regis joining us the last week in June for a week of biking, cooking and wine tasting through the Veneto. We will spend a day riding down this very strada!

Italiaoutdoors bikes down the Strada

The Strada del Vino (Wine Road) begins in Vicenza, at the old Arch standing at the foot of the “Scalette”, the stairs leading the faithful to the Sanctuary of Monte Berico. It then passes along a section that skirts the most famous villa by Palladio, “La Rotonda”. From here, it follows the contour of the Colli (Hill) linking all the towns built at the bottom of the hills. The itinerary continues on to the outskirts of Verona and the Chiampo valley, finally ending in Vicenza.

Today, there are about 3000 hectares under cultivation, supporting a total of nine DOC wines, six whites and three reds

 

Whites

Chardonnay DOC: This internationally popular varietal has been cultivated quite successfully here in these volcanic hills. It is typically straw-yellow in color, with a delicate bouquet, and a dry, harmonious, fruity taste. It is typically aged in stainless steel, and can be used pure, or mixed with a slight quantity of Pinot Bianco. It pairs well with fish and rice dishes.

Garganego DOC: This varietal is an indigenous grape that is grown from the Verona Hills to the Berici Hills, and is the grape used in the well-known Soave wine. It also exhibits a straw-yellow color, with a dry, slightly acidic taste. Again, it pairs well with fish, as well as pasta and rice dishes with more robust sauces, and especially with the local baccala vicentina.

Pinot Bianco DOC: The DOC wines from this varietal are produced either from 100% Pinot Bianco grapes, or can include a small quantity of Pinot Grigio. This wine has a lighter straw-yellow color, and a delicate flower and fruit bouquet. It is best served cold, and pairs well with shellfish.

Sauvignon DOC: Another internationally popular variety that has been successfully cultivated here in the volcanic soil of the Berici Hills. Straw yellow in color, with a slightly vegetal aroma, and a dry, full-bodied taste. Pairs well with first courses and fish.

Spumante DOC: A sparkling white wine, and the newest DOC wine in the Berici Hills. It contains at least 50% garganego grapes, with Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay used as blending grapes. It has fine and lingering bubbles, with a fresh dry taste.

Tocai Italico or Tai Bianco DOC: Produced using the indigenous grape of the same name, with occasionally a little garganago blended in, this white wine is again straw yellow in color, with a harmonious, dry, and tangy flavor. It is wonderful as an aperitif, or paired with first course dishes.

Reds

 

Cabernet DOC: The bordeaux grapes have been quite successful since being introduced to the Berici Hills. The Cabernet Colli Berici DOC uses Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc grapes. A Cabernet DOC qualifies for the “Reserve” label if it has undergone three or more years of aging, six months of which must be in wooden casks. These wines are deep ruby red, tending toward orange as they age. They are dry, full-bodied, and robust with strong tannins. The pair well with roasted red meat dishes, as well as strong cheeses.

Merlot DOC: Another bordeaux grape makes a strong appearance in this area, producing a slightly less intense red wine. Ruby red, with a velvety, full-bodied, harmonious flavor that pairs well with robust pastas with meat sauce.

Tai Rosso or Barbarano DOC: A DOC produced from the indigenous Tocal Rosso grape, a close relation to the Sardinian cannonau or French grenache varietal. Before 2007, the name was Tocai Rosso, but has been changed to avoid confusion with the Hungarian varietal of the same name. It is produced around Barbarano Vicentino and the surrounding towns, and so is sometimes named after the town itself. It is clear and brilliant, with a bright red color, and a balanced, harmonious taste with a hint of cherries. It pairs well with pasta and rice dishes, braised white meats and grilled meats.

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Buckwheat Polenta with Mushrooms and Poached Egg

by chefbikeski Posted on March 9, 2011
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Buckwheat Polenta with Poached Egg

Polenta, typically made with corn meal, is a traditional dish from the Veneto region. It has many variations, from a soft side dish served with meats and fish, to a firmer texture that can be grilled or broiled. During our cooking classes in Italy, we’ve made our own and topped with sopressa and cheeses. Our wonderful hosts at Villa Margherita served it grilled with baccala.

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Polenta and Baccala at Villa Margherita

Polenta is an ancient dish, but the use of corn as the base grain is not. Corn was first introduced to Italy in the 1700’s, from the New World. Prior to that, other grains such as spelt, millet, even ground chickpeas were mixed with water to produce a porridge. Buckwheat was commonly used, and it still used today in very northern areas where corn is not as easily grown. The following recipe uses a combination of buckwheat and corn meal to produce a flavorful polenta with a bit of a nutty taste.

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Polenta cooking

Polenta was traditionally cooked in a payola, a huge copper cauldron which would hang over the fire in an open fire place. When the water in the cauldron came to the boil, the corn meal was sprinkled into it. Then the hard work began. Housewives needed to be equipped with an olio di gomito, a well oiled elbow and a sturdy bastone, a long wooden stick, for the polenta had to be stirred continuously.

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Cooked soft buckwheat polenta

Once the polenta begins to move away from the sides of the saucepan, it is tipped out onto a wooden board and sliced with a piece of string. It is usually eaten when still warm instead of bread. Polenta is often served soft with rabbit, lamb, game or forest mushroom ragout. Italians also like to eat it with sausages or cream cheese and in Venice it often accompanies fish dishes. Polenta can also be served as primo, a first course, spread with a little butter and topped with freshly grated cheese. Favorite uses for left overs are grilling, frying or polenta gratin with a sauce.

Our web site includes more information on the history of polenta, and the regions in the Vicenza province that produce the highest quality polenta corn.

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buckwheat groats and polenta

Buckwheat Polenta with Mushrooms and Poached Egg

Serves 4

4 cups water
2/3 cup polenta or corn meal
1/3  cup buckwheat groats
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon shallot, minced
2 portobello mushrooms, or 6 large white mushrooms, sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
10 ounces baby spinach
¼ cup grated piave vecchio or grana cheese
Shaved piave vecchio or grana cheese
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
4 very fresh eggs
Fresh ground pepper
Truffle oil

Place the 4 cups water into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Add salt. Whisk in the corn meal and buckwheat groats, whisking until no lumps remain. Reduce the heat to a simmer, and allow the polenta to thicken, stirring often. If it becomes too thick, add a little water to loosen it. Cook for 30-40 minutes.

While polenta is cooking, heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan. Add the shallots and cook until soft. Add the mushroom and allow to brown and soften. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 1 more minute. Finally, add the spinach and cook until wilted. Remove from heat.

When the polenta is done, add the grated cheese and the butter and stir to combine. Keep warm while you poach the eggs.

Fill a medium saucepan halfway with water, and bring to a gentle simmer. Add the vinegar and some salt. Carefully break the eggs into the simmering water. Alternatively, you can break them, one at a time, into a small ramekin and slip them into the simmering water. Poach for 2-4 minutes, depending upon how runny you like your eggs. Remove from pan with a slotted spoon.

Lay out 4 plates. Place a large spoonful of polenta on each, top with the spinach/mushroom mixture, and then with a poached egg. Garnish with the shaved cheese, salt and fresh ground pepper. Drizzle with truffle oil.

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Radicchio and Arugula Salad

by chefbikeski Posted on March 3, 2011
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Radicchio and Arugula Salad

Radicchio, a member of the chicory family, was first introduced to the Republic of Venice from Asia around 1400. It began to be cultivated fairly extensively in the region, but it served primarily as animal fodder, and the roots were dried and mashed and used as a substitute for coffee. It was also included as an ornamental plant in the botanical gardens of the Venetian aristocracy. It wasn’t until the 19th century that radicchio was introduced into the cuisine of the Veneto. It does make an occasional appearance in its raw form, but the preferred method of use is as an ingredient in pasta fillings, rice dishes, or sauteed and served as a side dish to braised meats.

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Beautiful Radicchio

Here in the US, we see predominately the Radicchio Rosso di Chioggia form, which was first grown in the town of Chioggia on the Venetian Lagoon. This type is ball-shaped, like a small cabbage, and mostly purple in color with larger white streaks, or veins. In the Veneto region, however, especially in  the Province of Treviso, renowned for its’ radicchio, there are many other varieties, each making an appearance at a slightly different time of year and displaying its own culinary characteristics. On our Italiaoutdoors web site, our food section introduces a few these very interesting varieties, ranging from dark purple to white streaked with light green and pink.

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Radicchios undergo a forcing, or ‘whitening”, imbianchimento, in which field-harvested plants have their upper halves cut off, and then are replanted in running water. After a few days, the deep red inner ‘heart’ begins to grow, which is sweet and tender, with a touch of the original bitterness still remaining. The older outer leaves are removed and the heart is what you will see in the market.

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Fresh Ingredients

This recipe is an example of the occasional appearance of radicchio in its raw form, here it is combined with spicy arugula to make a wonderful salad. Dressed with a classic balsamic vinaigrette, I’ve added toasted pine nuts and Italian ‘bacon bits’, or oven-dried prosciutto. This was a recipe from my last cooking class and several of the students have tried and enjoyed it on their own.

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Italian Bacon Bits


Insalata di Radicchio e Rughetta

Serves 4

2 slices prosciutto
6 cups baby arugula
1 head radicchio, thinly sliced
1/2 cup freshly grated Grana Padano cheese
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted

Preheat oven to 300°.

Place the prosciutto slices on a sheet pan and dry in the oven until crispy, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Break into small pieces.

Combine the arugula, radicchio and cheese in a large salad bowl.

Place the vinegar and olive oil in a small lidded plastic container. Cover tightly with the lid, and shake vigorously. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the dressing to the salad, and toss lightly. Place on 4 places, and top with the pine nuts and prosciutto pieces.

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