Zuppa di Zucca

zuppa di zucca bike tours Italy
Zuppa di zucca

Fall is here, and with the colder weather my culinary thoughts turn towards warm comfort foods like soup. You will find pumpkin all over Italy, but it is especially common this time of year in the Northern regions we visit on my Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine bike and ski tours; in soups, in stuffed pastas, even sauteed and served over pasta. This soup was a combination of several different pumpkin soups from my library of Italian cookbooks.

pumpkins culinary bike tours
Pumpkins ready for roasting

Most of the soup recipes I reviewed had you peel and chop the pumpkin, then boil it in the stock to cook. Peeling and chopping a pumpkin is a lot of work – I could barely manage cutting these in half! But it was much quicker to halve them and roast them, and then the flesh separates easily from the skin. Also, I prefer the flavor of the pumpkin moistened with olive oil, and I would add a couple of whole garlic cloves in each half next time. I got into the habit of roasted vegetables for soups, rather than boiling them, when I was trying to develop some tasty, low salt soups for my parents, who are on salt-restricted diets. A tasty, low-salt soup – not easy!

saute bacon ski holidays dolomites
Bacon onions leeks

I tried the recipe once, and decided a little smoky flavor would be nice, so I added the bacon. I had a quart of apple cider in the refrigerator, and included that. Two cups went in the first batch, but that was a little too sweet for my taste. If you like a sweeter, more apple-y version, include more than one cup.

soup cooking bike wine tours
Soup cooking on stovetop

Depending upon the size and water content of your pumpkin, and the final consistency you desire, you may need to add more stock or water, or you may need to reduce it a bit. I found it rather thick, and added a little water. My immersion blender is on it’s last legs and didn’t do a very good job pureeing the soup. If you want a very smooth soup, you may have to move everything to the blender. And if you are pureeing and blending a thick soup, my last piece of advice – wear an apron. Between my malfunctioning immersion blender and the ill-fitting lid on my blender, I was wearing quite a bit of it by the time I finished. And my husband got the direct shot…

pureeing soup cycling dolomites
Pureeing soup

Zuppa di Zucca

Serves 8 as a first course, or 4 as a main with salad

1 small pumpkin, 3 1/2 pounds or so
4 ounces bacon, diced
2 onions, chopped
1 leek, white part only, sliced in half lengthwise, thinly sliced, and swirled in a bowl of water to remove grit
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 potatoes, peeled and chopped
6 cups chicken stock
1 cup apple cider
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup toasted pumpkin seeds
4 to 8 slices toasted bread (optional, for gluten free)
1/4 cup grated piave stravecchio cheese

Preheat oven to 400°.

Cut pumpkin in half, remove seeds and scrape out inside. Place on a baking sheet, fill pumpkin halves with a little water and roast until tender, about 40 minutes. Allow to cool.

Heat a large soup pan over medium heat, and add the bacon. Cook until just starting to crisp, and remove 1 tablespoon of the cooked bacon. Add the onions and leeks, and cook until translucent, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, another minute or so. Add the potatoes, chicken stock and cider. Bring to a boil and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Scrape the roasted pumpkin flesh out of the skin and add to the soup pan. Cook for five minutes. Using an immersion blender, puree the contents of the soup pan. If you prefer a finer texture, you can transfer the contents of the soup pan to a blender and puree.

Return soup to the pan, if you used the blender method, and reheat. Add the heavy cream and butter. Warm, and add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve in soup bowls, garnishing each with a toast slice topped with grated piave, a sprinkle of pumpkin seeds and bacon pieces.

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Arrosto con le mele

pork with apple bike tour italy
Arrosto con le Mele

I love pork. And while we don’t see it too much on our bike tours in the coastal Veneto region, except when used for the myriad of cured meat products there, you will see it used more and more as you move north into Trentino-Alto Adige. Ski season is approaching, and we are anxiously awaiting opening day here at Sugarloaf, ME (my winter home), as well as ski holidays in Italy, so comfort food is on my mind.

During my last trip to Italy, the apple harvest was in full swing, and it was the same situation here in New England when I returned. So I started a little research into how to combine the two, as pork pairs well with fruit. The “Silver Spoon” cookbook, the self-proclaimed “bible of authentic Italian cooking” had a recipe for Arrosto con le mele – perfect – with a little adaptation.

apples in italy market custom bike tours
Apples in Italy market on our bike tour

The original recipe calls for a boned pork loin. I prefer roasts with the bones in, as my favorite part is gnawing the meat off of the bones. Or I take the left-over bones (not the one’s I gnaw on) and throw them into the freezer, and when I have enough I make some pork stock. I purchased the pork from my favorite local source of meat, Tendercrop Farm in Newbury, MA. They produce their own chickens, grass-fed beef, and pork. They usually sell pork chops and boneless pork roasts stuffed with their own apple stuffing, but the friendly staff there is always willing to go out back and grab a bone-in roast for me. Basically I’m buying bone-in pork chops before they’ve been chopped. They cut through the bottom portion of each bone, making it easy to separate into chops after it has been roasted. You can see where they’ve cut through in the photo.

ingredients pork culinary bike tours italy
Pork, apples, fennel and spices

The apples and fennel came from Long Hill Orchard, the CSA I have been a member of for three years now. Cindy Adams and her team do a fantastic job, the produce is always beautiful and she has quite a variety all season long. Now there are six or seven different varieties of apples to enjoy. Many of the same varieties are available in Northern Italy, where Trentino-Alto Adige alone produces over 60% of the apples in Italy.

cooking with white wine bike wine tours
The side benefits of cooking with wine…

I tried the recipe a couple of weeks ago, and used a Veneto red wine and beef stock rather than vegetable stock. The sauce, a combination of apples, red wine and beef stock was a not-too attractive purple color. On my second attempt, I went with white wine and beef stock. I preferred the flavor of white wine version, and it was certainly more attractive!

sear pork ski holidays dolomites
Searing the pork

Both the original recipe and my version specify searing the pork roast on the stove before roasting. I like this – it insures a nice caramelized surface on the pork, but it not absolutely necessary if it is not your thing. I do spend some time on this process, making sure every surface is seared. Sometimes that means I am holding the roast in place with a dish towel as I sear an oddly shaped side that won’t cooperate and balance on its own.

Pork with apple cycling dolomites
Pork with apples

After searing, I placed the roast bone side down in the pan, and added the remaining ingredients. I covered the sauce ingredients, but not the roast itself, with parchment paper and then foil. The parchment paper is needed as the acid in the wine can react with the metal foil. The roast I leave uncovered, as I want a nice crisp outside, not soggy.

When the roast is done, I remove it from the pan, mash up the apples and fennel in the sauce with a potato masher, and reduce until it is the consistency I wanted. I served this with a bread and kale gnocchi, also hailing from Trentino.

pork with apples and gnocchi cycling tours europe
Arrosto con le mele with gnocchi

Roast Pork with Apples

Trentino-Alto Adige is the region north of the Veneto, extending up to the Austrian border. We will visit this region on our ski trips, as well as on bikes next season. As this area was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire as recently as prior to WWI, there is still a strong germanic influence. Here, two regionally produced food products, pork and apples, are combined in a nice fall roast.

Serves 4
3 lb. pork roast, bone in (4 chops)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 c. white wine
2 c. meat stock
8 cloves
1 tablespoon mustard
2 tablespoons sugar
1 head fennel, tough outer layers removed, chopped into 1/4 inch dice
3 apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2 inch dice
kosher salt and pepper
Heat the oven to 400°
Season the meat with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in an ovenproof pan, add the meat and sear on all sides until nicely browned.
Pour the wine and meat stock into the pan, and add the cloves, mustard, and sugar. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and bring to a boil. Add the fennel and apples, cover the liquid with foil, and roast in the oven for 20 minutes. Lower the heat to 350°, and continue to roast for until pork reaches and internal temperature of 130°.
Remove roast from pan and let stand. Remove the foil, place the pan on a burner, and mash the apples and fennel by pressing down with a spoon. Cook over high heat until thickened and caramelized. Check seasoning.
Slice roast into chops, place a spoonful of sauce on the plate, with the chop on top of it.

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