This classic Venetian dish you can whip up out of your pantry, making the sauce while the pasta cooks. I’ve enjoyed this across the Veneto region, from an osteria along the Grand Canal in Venice to a lakeside trattoria on Lake Garda, as sardines are found in both saltwater and fresh. Sardines play an important part in the local markets in Italy because of its low price and its ease of preserving. Salted sardines are perfect for this dish, but hard to find here in the US, however sardines packed in oil work just fine.
Bigoli is an extruded pasta in the form of a long and thick tube. Venetian grandmothers would make bigoli with a bigolaro, a press that was fixed to the table or a stool: the Nonna would put a bowl under the bigolaro and then press the dough with the machine and the long spaghetti would fall into the basin below. We’ve made this several times during our cooking classes on our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine Italy tours. Dried Bucatini pasta is a good substitute available here in our US supermarkets.
Traditionally, bigoli was a common dish eaten during the days of abstinence and fasting: Christmas Eve, Ash Wednesday and Holy Friday were always the days of “bigoli in salsa” across towns of the Veneto, with a combination of bigoli and salted sardines. Each town would have their favored variation, with a few other ingredients, including cherry tomatoes, garlic, capers.
This version I’ve kept to items that can be stored in your pantry, except for an optional garnish of parsley. I added some bread crumbs for a bit of crunch. The sweetness of the onions complements the strong salty flavor of the sardines. Enjoy with a nice crisp glass of Soave or a sparkling prosecco from the Veneto.
Bigoli con Le Sarde
Serves 4
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Two 4 3/8 ounce tins sardines packed in oil, bones and head removed, minced
1 medium red onion, sliced
2 tablespoons white wine
1 pound bigoli, or bucatini
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup bread crumbs
Heat the olive oil in a saute pan. Add the sardines and onion and cook until onions are soft. Before the onions brown, add the wine to stop the cooking and remove from heat.
Bring a large pot of water to boil, and add a generous amount of salt. Add the bucatini and cook until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking liquid, then drain the pasta.
Add bucatini to the sardine sauce and mix, adding a bit of the reserved cooking water as needed to loosen the sauce. Toss with bread crumbs and serve immediately.
The Italian region of Piedmont is renowned for its acclaimed reds, Barolo and Barbaresco. But as we explore by bike or foot on our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine tours, we discover that this lovely region produces some wonderful whites as well. Here is a brief overview of the whites you should try on your next visit to Piedmont.
Gavi
The southern-most wine zone in Piedmont is the Gavi DOCG. This denomination gained DOCG status in 1998. The vineyards are found in the hills of 13 communes in the province of Alessandria, including Gavi, Novi Ligure, Serravalle Scrivia and Arquata Scrivia, right on the border of coastal Liguria. Wines that include the name Gavi di Gavi on their label come from vineyards in the township of Gavi itself, the center of this production zone.
Gavi wines are made from the white grape, Cortese, a thin skinned grape that is naturally high in acidity. Cortese is an indigenous grape that has been grown here for at least 400 years. Piedmont is unusual in Italy as many of its premium wines are required to be made exclusively from a single varietal, while most Italian denominations require only 85% concentration. Gavi is one of these zones, and Gavi DOCG wines must be 100% Cortese.
Cortese wines are quite dry and crisp, with a fresh acidity and minerality. They typically display floral notes, with flavors of citrus, green apples, peach and pears, and a hints of nuts at the finish. The wines are predominately unoaked, and are excellent with seafood from neighboring Liguria.
Arneis
Just across the Tanaro River from the heart of Nebbiolo/Barolo/Barbaresco territory lies the Roero DOCG. Here, the sandy hills are very high in minerality, and the area produces some quality reds, although they don’t quite command the same price tags as those from the hills just a few kilometers south. In the sandiest of the Roero soils, a white grape called Arneis finds a home, developing a nice acidity and structure. Another old, indigenous white grape, the name Arneis translates to “little rascal” in the local dialect, earning the name because it is so difficult to grow.
Historically, the local red wine produced here was made from Nebbiolo, (also difficult to grow), with a little of the Arneis thrown in to soften the tannins and acid. This earned Arneis the nickname Barolo Bianco or white Barolo. This blending of white grapes into red wine was often employed prior to the adoption of barrel aging to mellow the rough edges of these rustic wines. However, once the local producers adopted modern wine-making techniques, this blending was eliminated (Barolo wines are now required to be 100% Nebbiolo) and so was the need to grow Arneis.
But a few local Roero and Langhe area producers kept the traditional grape alive. From a mere handful of producers in the 1970s, including Ceretto, Cornarea, and two famous Barolo houses, Vietti and Bruno Giacosa. today multiple producers make more than 1 million gallons per year.
Arneis is most often made in stainless steel vats, although some producers do employ barrel aging to make a fuller bodied wine. By DOCG rules, a Roero Arneis DOCG must be 95% Arneis.
Arneis wines are pale gold in color, with characteristic aromas of pear, and sometimes floral. Dry and crisp, with notes of citrus, stone fruits, tart apples, and a distinct minerality and saltiness. The best can age, developing a nutty finish.
Arneis follows the typical recommended pairing, with fish and light pasta dishes. But in Piemont, they enjoy Roero Arneis with all their typical appetizers, including salumi, vitello tonnato, bagna cauda and their favorite, chopped beef carpaccio.
Erbaluce
Yet another ancient indigenous white, Erbaluce has been growing in Northern Piedmont since the 1600s. Its home is the lake country in the foothills of the Alps north of Turin. Here, during the Ice Age a glacier formed a basin between Lago di Candia and Lago di Viverone where today on a plateau at 650 – 1150 feet lie the vineyards of the Erbaluce DOCG. At less than 500 acres in size, it is very small compared to Gavi and Arneis.
The name Erbaluce reflect its flavor profile, and home: erbe means grass or herbs in Italian, luce is light, reflecting the sunny slopes where this late-ripening grape fares best. Naturally high in acid, it adapts well to a variety of vinification styles, from sparkling to bone-dry still to passito dessert wines. All three styles have DOCG status: Erbaluce di Caluso, Erbaluce di Caluso Spumante, Erbaluce di Caluso Passito.
The best Erbaluce have well develop fruit flavors to offset the natural acidity. Characteristic flavors of green apple, apricot and lemon, with floral notes and noticeable minerality. Enjoy the Spumante as an aperitivo, the dry version with seafood or lighter pasta dishes and vitello tonnato, and finish with the Passito with a fruit dessert.
Moscato
The oldest of the these old grapes, and the most widely planted white in Piedmont is Moscato bianco. Grown in vineyards around the hilltop town of Asti, Moscato gets its name from its musky, earthy aroma. This varietal ripens early and, like Erbaluce, produces a wide range of wine styles: light and dry, slightly sweet and sparkling or a rich, honey-like dessert wine.
In Asti, production of Moscato d’Asti began in the 1870s. A frizzante style (lightly fizzy) wine, Moscato d’Asti is a low-alcohol wine that the winemakers produced for themselves to enjoy at lunch, so as not to overly affect afternoon production. It is also enjoyed during multi-course evening meals as a digestif and palate cleanser.
Classic Moscato d’Asti wine is characterized by elegant floral aromas with notes of peach, apricot and grape. Moscato d’Asti is a refreshing aperitif, but also pairs well with desserts, particularly with fruit tarts and pastries with hazelnuts or almonds.
The technique used to make Moscato d’Asti si known as the “Asti Method”. Muscat grapes are harvested and very gently pressed to retain all the delicate floral aromas. The must is then transferred into a pressurized tank for fermentation. Here yeasts transform grape sugars to alcohol, releasing carbon dioxide gas as a byproduct. A portion of this CO2 is trapped in the wine by the pressurized tank, creating small bubbles. When the alcohol level reaches around 5 percent (the maximum allowed for Moscato d’Asti is a low 6%) the wine is chilled, killing the yeasts and halting fermentation. The resulting product is sweet, sparkling Moscato d’Asti.
In case you are wondering, that sweet sparkling wine your parents enjoyed – Asti Spumate – is not the same thing. One again, Italian wine names confuse more than illuminate. Like Moscato d”Asti, Asti Spumante is made near Asti, from the same Moscato bianco grapes. But Asti Spumante is slightly drier, fully sparkling and has an alcohol content closer to 9 percent. The bubbles are the easiest way to distinguish between the two wines. Moscato d’Asti is frizzante, which is a light sparkle, just barely fizzy. Asti Spumante is spumante, which is a fuller sparkle, like you would find in a champagne.
Next time you are enjoying some of Piedmont’s wonderful pastas, or seafood from Liguria, pair with one of these whites to enjoy these dishes as a local Italian would!
One pasta dish we find no matter where we travel in Italy on our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine tours – from the Dolomites to Venice, Tuscany to Piedmont to the Amalfi Coast -is gnocchi. Is gnocchi pasta? It is the ancestor of pasta, which began as dumplings formed from flour and water, poached in water. These small dumplings, the name gnocchi probably coming from the Italian word for knuckle, nocca, date as early as the Roman empire.
Recipes for gnocchi incorporating cheese, flour, and eggs appear as far back as the cookbooks of the thirteenth century. The original flour and water mixture for gnocchi is still used today in many regional recipes in Italy, where they take different names and shapes, and many are now considered pasta – from orecchiette in Apulia to Sardinia’s malloreddus.
As the years passed, gnocchi evolved to include a multitude of possible ingredients, incorporating whatever leftovers were on hand. The result is a wonderful variety of regional variations. Among the options, you can find gnocchi based on stale bread, ricotta and other cheeses, semolina, buckwheat, spinach, meats like speck and even spleen. Potato gnocchi are the ones we see most frequently on our Veneto tours, but these didn’t appear in Italy until potatoes were introduced in the 1600s.
This version, from Pasta by Hand: A Collection of Italy’s Regional Hand-Shaped Pasta, by Jenn Louis, hails from Piedmont, home to our Barolo Walk and Wine tours. A dramatic purple-red color, they are an elegant way to use up any leftover roasted beets. Louis recommends serving with the Brown Butter and Sage sauce included below. I’ve also included an interesting variation, inspired by the cuisine of the Dolomites and the Casunziei of Cortina, a Brown Butter and Poppy Seed sauce, topped with smoked ricotta if you can find some!
Piedmont is best known for its amazing red wines, Barolo and Barbaresco. But some nice whites are produced as well. I enjoyed a Gavi wine from producer Michele Chiarlo (who also makes great Barolo). Cortese is the grape behind the Gavi wine, and is aromatic, crisp, floral, with a hint of peach.
Gnocchi di Ricotta e Barbabietole – Beet and Ricotta Gnocchi
1 pound or so large red beets (4 large), trimmed
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup water
1 egg
1 cup whole milk ricotta cheese
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Freshly grated nutmeg
3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
Semolina flour for dusting
Preheat oven to 350°F. Place the beets in a baking dish large enough to hold them in a single layer. Season with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil, and add the water. Cover the baking dish tightly with aluminum foil and roast until the beets can be easily pierced with a fork, 40 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven, uncover, and set aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, slip the skins off the beets with your fingers or a paring knife. Cut the beets into large chunks.
In a blender or or the bowl of a food processor, combine the beets and egg and process until very smooth.
In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine 1 1/2 cups of beet puree, the ricotta cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, a few swipes of nutmeg, and 1 tablespoon salt. Mix with your hands or on medium speed, until fully combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the all-purpose flour and knead with your hand or on low speed just until combined. Do not over mix, as this will make the gnocchi tough. The dough should be soft and slightly sticky.
Dust 1/2 cup all-purpose flour on the work surface, the scrape the dough from the bowl directly on top of the flour. Lightly dust the top of the dough with more all-purpose flour. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and dust with semolina flour. Cut off a chunk of dough about the width of two fingers and leave the rest covered with plastic wrap. On a work surface very lightly dusted with all-purpose flour, use your hands to roll the chunk into a log about 1/2 inch in diameter. Cut the log into 1/4 inch pieces. Put the gnocchi on the prepared baking sheets and shape the remaining dough. Make sure that the gnocchi don’t touch or they will stick together.
(To store, refrigerate on the baking sheet, covered with plastic wrap, for up to 2 days, or freeze on the baking sheet and transfer to an airtight container. Use within 1 month. Do not thaw before cooking.)
Bring a large pot filled with generously salted water to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add the gnocchi and simmer until they float to the surface, 1 to 3 minutes. Remove immediately with a slotted spoon and finish with your choice of sauce.
Brown Butter with Sage
3/4 cup unsalted butter
12 fresh sage leaves
Kosher salt
In a medium sauce pan, melt the butter with the sage over medium-low heat. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the butter becomes golden brown and the milk solids separate to the bottom of the pan and turn toasty, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and season lightly with salt.
To finish gnocchi with brown butter, add six portions of cooked gnocchi to the sauce. Toss to coat and spoon into serving bowls. Serve immediately, garnished with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Brown Butter with Poppy Seeds
Same recipe, replace sage leaves with 1 tablespoon poppy seeds. Garnish with Parmigiano-Reggiano, or, if you can find it, grated smoked ricotta.
Our final – and often most loved – winery tour and tasting on our walking and cycling tours in Tuscany is Il Palazzone, a producer just outside Montalcino. Not only do we taste amazing Brunello and other wines, but our hosts are some of the most passionate and knowledgeable in the area. Laura Gray, the estate manager, oversees the day to day operation of the winery, but always has time to make our small groups welcome. Esther Mercedes Jürgens of Vino Vistas often leads our evening tours, educating us on the history of Brunello and the work that goes on behind the scenes to produce wines of this quality. I learn something new every visit.
As Esther described during our last visit, Il Palazzone represents what is a ‘typical’ Brunello producer:
small
family owned
foreign owned (foreign = not from Montalcino)
wasn’t originally a winery
multiple vineyards
My recent article on the History of Brunello will supply the background to anyone who wishes to understand why most producers follow this profile. This article here is all about why Il Palazzone is anything but ‘typical’.
In the mid-1990s, New Yorker Richard Parsons, a frequent visitor to the area, began his search for just the right property to make his beloved Brunello. In 2000, he purchased Il Palazzone. Parsons visits frequently, participating in all the key activities of production, from hand harvesting to blending. In 2003 Laura, a trained sommelier, joined him, recruited from Parsons’ favorite local restaurant. Today, their Brunello wines are regularly rated over 90 points by Wine Enthusiast, Wine Spectator and other well-regarded wine reviewers.
We begin every tour at the source – the vineyard. Currently, Il Palazzone has three separate vineyards in different areas of Montalcino. In spite of its small size, this wine zone boasts a broad variety of terroirs (see my article on the Terroir of Brunello), very important for a grape such as Sangiovese which is extremely dependent on its growing environment. Having three vineyards in three different locations allows the winemakers of Il Palazzone to create blends using grapes from three locations, adjusting each year to best reflect the results of each harvest.
The vineyard we visit is their Due Porte vineyard, just outside of Montalcino to the northwest. This is their highest vineyard, at 1700 feet. The elevation and northwest exposure result in later ripening, but excellent ventilation and large diurnal temperature variation results in grapes that are high in fruit and maintain good acidity even in hotter years, necessary for long aging.
The other two vineyards are located in the southeast corner of the Brunello zone, near Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The Vigna del Capa vineyard is over 700 feet lower in elevation, with a southern exposure. The area here, at lower elevation, emerged much later from the sea that covered this land millions of years ago. The terroir here is noticeably more saline, with minerals such as iron, magnesium and manganese in the soil. The grapes from these vineyard have an incredible minerality, ripen sooner, with more sugars.
Esther leads us over to the vines, and explains Il Palazzone’s commitment to “responsible agriculture”. While not officially certified organic, they do not use any chemical pesticides or insecticides. The few treatments used are allowed in organic farming. As an example, after a violent hail storm this spring damaged the young vines, they were treated with an algea to assist with recovery.
We learn about their use of cover crops, which I’ve seen employed by other quality producers with a commitment to sustainability. Cover crops are nitrogen rich legumes such as lupins, fava beans and clover which are planted in alternate rows. These are then ploughed under, enriching and fertilizing the soil. This reduces erosion, improves water absorption and increases organic matter which enhances soil structure and eliminates the need for chemical fertilizers. Cover crops also increase biodiversity, as evidenced by the flowers, butterflies, ladybirds and earthworms in the vineyard.
Cultivating the vines is very hands-on, from beginning to end. From careful pruning, to stripping away individual vine-leaves in order to allow bunches to dry after rain in order to prevent grey mold rather than resorting to use of anti-fungal sprays, painstaking manual labor pays off in the end. Robert Parsons invites a crew of friends to be part of the harvest, putting passionate oenophiles to work in the fields. Many return year after year.
After our tour of the vineyards, we enter the cellar. Built in 2012, the cellar was designed by local architect Marco Pignattai to blend in with the historical architecture of the area. The cellar looks like a church nestled among the vineyards, belying the modern production facility housed inside. We enter the vinification room, built with a gabled roof style used throughout the Val d’Orcia. Green initiatives that were incorporated into this traditional design include recovering rainwater for irrigating the surrounding gardens (irrigation of the vines themselves is only allowed in emergency situations) and cellar work, installing an air exchange system to maintain temperature throughout the seasons and reduce energy use, using 90% recycled bricks for the roof and the walls, and sourcing all the stone for the landscaping from an on-site quarry.
The vinification room holds the fermentation barrels and the traditional press that is used to press the grapes. This room is quite quiet for most of the year, but in mid October, just a few weeks after harvest, it is full of the almost palpable aromas of fermentation as the yeasts go to work, converting the sugars stored in the grapes during the growing season into alcohol and carbon dioxide. We take a few minutes here to soak in the atmosphere and review the fermentation process. Fermentation takes place in beautiful wooden 5000 liter barrels. The tannins in the oak are an anti-oxidant. This, combined with the micro-oxygenation permitted by the wood, results in a clean wine with increased aromatic and tannin stability.
Grape must ready to be made into grappa
We wander next to the aging room, moving from a large, open, warehouse type room to a peaceful, dark, quiet space – an appropriate environment for a wine to rest and gracefully develop. Above us, an undulating roof made of thousands of small cedar slats, reminiscent of the waves in the ancient ocean that gave birth to this terroir.
A simple, but elegant tasting is already arranged for us in the center. We are surrounded by the large Slavonian oak “botti” that Il Palazzone prefers for aging. Botti can vary in size, from 1500 to 10000 liters, and perform the so-called “traditional” style of aging. This is in contrast to “modern” style aging which employs smaller 225 liter French oak barriques. The decision to use botti today is an important one, as the cellar must allow ample room – barriques can be packed more efficiently on racks – as well as a large entry for installation. It is not the most cost-effective option. The thick walls, fine-grained Slavonian oak, and less surface area to contact the wine require a longer aeration time, but results in increased complexity, more fruit, and ultimately a wine with more aging potential. Il Palazzone Brunello often spends nearly four years in wood. Current DOCG regulations specify a minimum of only two years. In exceptional vintages the best grapes are devoted to their prestigious Riserva. An Il Palazzone Riserva spends a year more in wood than the vintage Brunello and is released a year afterwards.
We taste first the Rosso del Palazzone. As mentioned earlier, the three Brunello vineyards are in three very different areas of Montalcino. Consequently each vineyard ripens at a different time and the picked grapes show very different qualities due to difference in soil, age of vines, position and altitude. The ensuing wines are also vinified separately. The team at Il Palazzone creates the ideal composition for each vintage of Brunello by combining the three 100% Sangiovese vineyards in different proportions, depending on whether or not they produce a Riserva and the fluctuations of the growing season.
Occasionally they choose not to include a barrel of wine from one vineyard or the other in order to maintain a perfect balance in their Brunello. This wine, potential Brunello, is set aside to make their Rosso del Palazzone. During my last visit, we sampled the NV 01/18 Rosso del Palazzone, a 100% Sangiovese Grosso blend of 80% 2016 and 20% 2017 vintages. Deep red in color, with typical flavors of fresh cherry, complemented by herbal notes and a nice minerality. This versatile wine pairs well with a variety of foods, including soups, pastas, grilled meats and cheeses.
We then sampled two amazing Il Palazzone Brunello, this visit their 2009 and 2013 Brunello di Montalcino. Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is produced with 100% Sangiovese Grosso grapes. Il Palazzone follows the traditional aging requirements for Brunello, a minimum four years, at least two of which must be in oak.
2009 was a very hot summer, resulting in a warm and rich wine. Il Palazzone decided to balance the effects of the heat with considerably less wood aging than normal: only 34 months compared to their typical 40 plus months. Too much time in wood for a ripe vintage like this would risk exhausting the wine and reducing its aging potential. This wine possesses aromas of fresh cherry, damp earth, and tobacco. Elegant, but subtle, well-balanced. Great with braised meat dishes and game.
The 2013 is the most recent vintage, so it has not yet come in to its own, but shows great promise. After hot and torrid 2011 and 2012, the cool, wet and extended spring of 2013 was welcomed. September brought an extended series of warm ventilated days and cool nights, perfect for increasing aromatics, keeping acidity high and alcohol in check. This was given 38 months of aging in the wood botti. The color is a deep ruby with garnet hues. Many aromas develop, from cherry fruit to vanilla to anise and leather. A fresh acidity with a well-rounded structure from start to finish. Pair with a nice beef stew or goulash.
After enjoying a final taste of Il Palazzone Grappa that Esther insisted we try (I never turn down a taste of grappa), we exit the cellar to meet our transfer back to Montalcino. A spectacular moonrise provides the perfect ending to delightful evening. Off to enjoy some more Brunello with our farewell feast in Montalcino – we couldn’t resist finishing with a bottle of 2012 Il Palazzone Brunello!
Here’s a dish we see no matter where in Italy our Italiaoutdoors private tours take us – braised beef with Brunello in Tuscany, braised beef with Amarone in the Veneto, and braised in Barolo in Piedmont. A perfect dish for colder months that pairs superbly with the robust red wines that are the signature ingredient. However, here in the US I am hesitant to braise beef in a $60 bottle of wine!
This recipe was inspired by my recent post on Brasato al Barolo, but rather than using an expensive Barolo I selected a bottle of Barbera. Barbera is a red Italian varietal, originally from Piedmont, that is now the third most planted grape in Italy. While Barolo and Barbaresco are typically saved for special occasions, Barbera is “the people’s wine” and enjoyed every day.
Barbara is very dark in color, but surprising light in taste, with flavors of cherries, strawberries and raspberries. Barbera is low in tannins and high in acidity, which makes it a perfect wine to pair with rich foods. Here I’ve braised oxtail in Barbera. The acidity in the wine cuts straight through the intense flavors and fat, a perfect complement to this luxurious and comforting dish.
Braising is an ancient method of cooking that slowly transforms tougher cuts of meat into a luscious dish of meat that falls apart with a touch served with a flavorful sauce. The meat is seared, some vegetables may be added for flavor, then the meat is partially submerged in liquid and slowly simmered for hours until the meat literally falls apart. This Piedmont-inspired variation includes chestnuts, very common to find in Italian dishes in the colder months. `
The Italian word brasato comes from brace, meaning “hot coals”, as a heavy pot containing the braise would be buried in glowing coals where the meat would cook for hours.
Brasato di Coda di Bue al Barbera (Braised Oxtail in Barbera)
Serves 6 to 8
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 pounds oxtails, cut into 3” sections
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dusting
2 medium onions, diced
4 medium carrots, peeled and diced
1 stalk celery, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 cup cooked chestnuts, coarsely chopped
6 cups Barbera wine
Season all sides of the oxtails with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a heavy enamel pot or other ovenproof pot; place oxtails in the pot in batches and brown on all sides until well caramelized all over. Remove and set aside.
Lower heat to medium. Add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until they begin to soften, 4-5 minutes, scraping up all the browned bits from the pan as they cook. Add the bay leaves and cloves, stir to combine. Return oxtails to the pan, placing on the vegetables. Add the chestnuts.
Add the wine. The wine will come up the sides of the oxtails so that they are half submerged.
Raise the heat to high, when the wine begins to bubble, lower to a simmer and cover. Cook over low heat, turning the meat occassionally, until the meat is very tender, falling apart when you pull it with a fork, and the wine is reduced – this may take 2 1/2 – 3 hours.
Carefully remove the oxtails to a platter and keep warm. Bring the wine and vegetables back to a boil and continue to reduce until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary.
Serve with polenta. Spoon some of the sauce over each serving.
This classic Venetian dish you can whip up out of your pantry, making the sauce while the pasta cooks. I’ve enjoyed this across the Veneto region, from an osteria along the Grand Canal in Venice to a lakeside trattoria on Lake Garda, as sardines are found in both saltwater and fresh. Sardines play an important part in the local markets in Italy because of its low price and its ease of preserving. Salted sardines are perfect for this dish, but hard to find here in the US, however sardines packed in oil work just fine.
The vineyard we visit is their Due Porte vineyard, just outside of Montalcino to the northwest. This is their highest vineyard, at 1700 feet. The elevation and northwest exposure result in later ripening, but excellent ventilation and large diurnal temperature variation results in grapes that are high in fruit and maintain good acidity even in hotter years, necessary for long aging.
