Wherever in Italy we explore on our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine tours, we find risotto on the menu. Grown primarily in Northern Italy, mainly in the marshy areas of the Po River Valley, rice found a natural habitat. The result is a wide array of risotto dishes found across the peninsula, reflecting the traditional cuisines and seasonal products of each area, from Risotto alla Milanese in Lombardia to Risotto con Funghi in Trentino-Alto Adige to Risotto with White Asparagus from Bassano del Grappa.
The following risotto – Risotto al Limone e Gamberetti – I’ve enjoyed in two regions, one in the north, one south; but in both locations it showcases the seasonal local specialties of the region.
Gamberetti (small shrimp) are widespread and abundant. There are thousands of species adapted to a wide range of habitats, including both saltwater and fresh. They can be found feeding near the seafloor on most coasts, as well as in rivers and lakes.
In the north, the perfect place to experience this dish would be in a lakeside cafe on the western shore of Lake Garda. Here, freshwater shrimp right out of the lake; a local olive oil – this is the northernmost point where you will find olive trees in Italy; Vialone Nano risotto rice from the plains just south of nearby Verona; local lemons, available this far north due to the special greenhouses developed for growing citrus on the shores of the lake.
Limone del Garda is a small picturesque village perched on the northern shore of Lake Garda, the easternmost lake in Lombardy’s lake districts. As its name suggests, you will discover many citrus trees here, growing against the rocks facing over the lake. Hundreds of years ago, Ligurian monks created special greenhouses designed to work with these rock terraces to trap heat and make the cultivation of citrus trees possible this far north, almost at the Trentino border. Today these citrus are mainly used for confectionery or distilling purposes, but they are also found as an ingredient in many local dishes.
In the south, I suggest enjoying this dish seaside on the Amalfi coast in the region of Campania. A nice restaurant in Positano, or lunch during an excursion to Capri. Here, shrimp plucked fresh from the Tyrrhenian Sea, paired with the renowned Amalfi lemons.
On the Amalfi coast, look for variations featuring the “sfusato” lemon, il limone sfusato. Large in size, with a thick yellow peel and intense smell. Juicy flesh, few seeds. Delicious even enjoyed uncooked, but ideal for the preparation of fresh recipes. Grown here since the 11th century, an essential foods for this community of navigators, to take with them on their travels to ward off scurvy. From the 1400s, a flourishing maritime trade of this prized citrus began from the town of Minori to Italian and European ports. Today the sfusato lemon enjoys protected IGP status.
My wine recommendation here depends on where you wish to transport yourself with this dish. If you are envisioning a lakeside retreat in the Lake District, pair with a crisp white from the Lugana wine zone located on the southern coast of Lake Garda. These Lugana white wines must consist of at least 90% Trebbiano di Lugana, locally called Turbiana. Originally, this grape was thought to be a variant of Trebbiano (the Cognac grape), hence the name Trebbiano di Lugana. In 2008, DNA profiling showed that Turbiana is in fact Verdicchio, which usually appears on Italy’s central-eastern coast in the region of Marche.
On the Amalfi coast, I’d select a glass of Falanghina, an indigenous white grape from the Amalfi coast, produced in DOC regions such as Campi Flegrei, Falerno Massico, Capri, Sorrento, and Amalfi Coast.
Risotto al Limone e Gamberetti
Serves 4
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic
1 pound freshwater shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 sprigs fresh oregano, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 rib celery, cut into 1/4 inch dice
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch dice
1 small onion, finely chopped
12 ounces risotto rice – Vialone nano, Carnaroli, Arbrorio
1/2 cup dry white wine
6 cups vegetable or chicken broth
Juice and grated peel of 1 lemon
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or grana cheese
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
Heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the clove of garlic to the pan. Saute the garlic clove until brown, remove from pan. Add the shrimp to the pan and saute until just cooked through, just a couple of minutes, depending on the size. Remove from pan and place in a bowl. Season with the oregano, salt and pepper, set aside.
Put the broth in a saucepan and heat.
Add remaining tablespoon of oil to the saute pan, still over medium heat. Add the celery, carrot and onion, and cook until tender and translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the rice to the saute pan and cook about 1-2 minutes.
Add the wine, and cook to reduce. When it has evaporated almost completely, begin to stir in the hot broth. Add a ladleful of the hot stock and simmer, stirring gently, until the stock is absorbed. Continue adding the stock a ladleful at a time, stirring and waiting until the stock is absorbed before the next addition of stock. Continue until the rice is al dente. The stock may not all be used. Add the lemon juice and lemon peel, stir to combined.
When the risotto is done, stir in the grated cheese and parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Carefully stir in the reserved shrimp, and serve immediately.
