This recipe was created for our Newburyport Wine Club, where we create events to experience different wines and to develop an appreciation for pairing foods with wines. A recent event focused on South African Wines, “Where Old World Meets New World”. When our themes focus on a region, I always return to the wine pairing adage, “If it grows with it, it goes with it”. So traditional South African recipes were our inspiration for the evening’s menu.
Butternut squash soup has seamlessly woven itself into South African cuisine, becoming a beloved dish cherished for its comforting flavors and wholesome richness. This creamy concoction embodies the fusion of local ingredients and the many culinary influences found in South Africa. South African chefs often infuse the soup with aromatic spices such as coriander, cumin, and nutmeg, lending it a delightful depth of flavor. It’s not uncommon to find variations featuring indigenous ingredients like rooibos or ginger, adding a unique twist to this traditional dish.
I had expert help developing the variation we created for our wine club. We gathered at our sommelier Gary Sullivan’s lovely home to try the menu for the evening with the wines he personally selects for our events. Our collaborator Karen Shernan, owner of Affimata, was there, and our great friend, chef and restaurateur Jody Adams. I brought the squash, vegetable broth, lots of various spices and other ingredients, and we worked together over the stove, tasting and adjusting, to create a perfect pairing for a wonderful Chenin Blanc.
Chenin Blanc has a storied history in South Africa, dating back to the 17th century when Dutch settlers first introduced the grape to the Cape. Initially used for brandy production, Chenin Blanc eventually found its place in wine-making, becoming one of South Africa’s signature varietals. Throughout the centuries, Chenin Blanc has seen fluctuations in popularity and production techniques, but its versatility and adaptability to diverse terroirs have ensured its lasting presence in the South African wine landscape. Today, South Africa is the largest producer of Chenin Blanc in the world, with winemakers showcasing the grape’s potential through a variety of styles, from crisp and refreshing to richly textured and complex, solidifying its status as a cornerstone of the country’s wine-making heritage.
We enjoyed the amazing 2022 Botanica Wines “Mary Delany” Chenin Blanc, 100% Chenin Blanc. Botanica Wines was founded in 2009 by owner and self-taught winemaker Ginny Povall, an American who fell in love with the beautiful Cape winelands, purchased Protea Heights farm in Stellenbosch’s Devon Valley and relocated to the southern tip of Africa in 2008. With notes of orange blossom and rind, and an almost negroni-like perfume, this wine is complex and elegant, with layers of pure, concentrated pear, citrus, and stone fruit flavors, mouth-watering acidity and a tangy, mineral core.
Gary had suggested a recipe that included a roasted banana. We were all a bit skeptical of this addition, but surprisingly it worked! Not too much though!
South African-Inspired Butternut Squash Soup with Crème Fraîche and Dukkah
1 butternut squash (about 1.5 pounds), peeled and chopped into 1 inch cubes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 banana, unpeeled
4 cups vegetable stock
1 cup coconut milk
1/2 teaspoon roasted coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon roasted cumin
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
Juice and zest of 1 lime
Optional: 1 teaspoon curry powder
Garnish: crème fraîche, dukkah, cilantro
Preheat oven to 400°F.
In a large bowl, toss chopped squash with olive oil and a bit of salt and pepper. Lay out on a sheet pan, do not crowd, so use two sheet pans if necessary. Place the banana, unpeeled, on one of the sheet pans. Place in the oven and roast until the squash is browning and tender, approximately 20 minutes. Check the banana occasionally during this time, and remove if it begins to split open.
Transfer the roasted butternut squash to a large sauce pan. Add the vegetable stock and heat over medium heat. Add the coconut milk and 1/2 of the roasted banana. With an immersion blend, blend until the entire mixture is smooth. If you prefer a thinner soup, you can add a bit more vegetable stock or water.
Add the roasted coriander, cumin, turmeric, ginger, lime juice and zest, stir to thoroughly combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Garnish with crème fraîche, chopped cilantro anad dukkah.
Dukkah is a spice and nut mix, originally from Egypt, but now seen all over Africa. We’ll get to it in a future post.
